A Cornish Retreat: Unwinding in St. Mawes, England’s Hidden Gem, and a Culinary Delight

And just like that, I’m back with the final installment of my incredible journey overseas! After an exhilarating exploration of the wild and beautiful Scottish Highlands and the vibrant, bustling streets of Glasgow, it was time to shift gears for the second, more serene, leg of my adventure. My destination? The enchanting county of Cornwall, England, to spend precious time with my grandmother in her picturesque home.

She resides in the captivating fishing village of St. Mawes, nestled perfectly on the southern-most tip of England. It’s a place of unparalleled beauty, a quintessential Cornish haven that truly captures the heart. However, its secluded charm comes with a bit of a journey – a trek that promises stunning rewards upon arrival!

The Epic Journey from Scotland to St. Mawes

Our travel itinerary, beginning in the far north of Scotland, meant that the journey south to Cornwall was an exceptionally long one. My mom and I embarked on our southward bound adventure from the Glasgow train station on a crisp Thursday morning, catching an 8 am train. What followed was a marathon 12-hour expedition across the length of the country. By the time we finally pulled into our destination, exhaustion was a very real companion.

Looking back, what exactly did I do for those 12 hours on the train? The details are a blur, lost somewhere between countless landscapes flashing by and the rhythmic hum of the tracks. I mostly recall a growing sense of discomfort, a longing for solid ground, and a surprisingly effective strategy for passing the seemingly endless hours: a prodigious consumption of gummy candy. Sometimes, simple pleasures are the best way to endure a long haul!

Welcome to St. Mawes: A Cornish Gem

Stepping off the train and finally arriving in St. Mawes was like entering a different world. The crisp, salty air, the gentle lapping of waves against the shore, and the quaint charm of the village immediately set a new, slower pace. St. Mawes is more than just a village; it’s an experience. Its narrow, winding streets, historic stone cottages, and bustling harbor filled with fishing boats and yachts paint a picture of timeless beauty. It’s truly a place where you can feel the rich history and vibrant community spirit.

And adding to its allure, just a short walk up the road, stands the majestic St. Mawes Castle. This impressive fortress, with its distinctive cloverleaf design, boasts over 500 years of history. Built by Henry VIII to defend the Carrick Roads waterway, it’s remarkably well-preserved and offers breathtaking views of the estuary and beyond. Exploring its ancient walls and imagining the lives of those who once guarded these shores truly transports you back in time.

The Rhythms of Relaxation: Unwinding in St. Mawes

While my time in Glasgow was a whirlwind of sightseeing and fast-paced exploration, a determined effort to see as much as possible, my days in St. Mawes settled into a wonderfully different rhythm. Here, the agenda was dictated by tranquility and the simple pleasures of life. It was a haven for unwinding, where the hours stretched out, filled with restorative activities like leisurely reading sessions curled up with a good book, much-needed afternoon naps, and unhurried, casual walks that allowed me to truly absorb the beauty of my surroundings.

Each walk was an opportunity to discover something new – a hidden cove, a charming local shop, or simply another breathtaking vista of the sea. The gentle sea breeze, the distant cries of gulls, and the quiet ebb and flow of village life created an atmosphere of profound calm. It was the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of city life, allowing me to fully recharge and reconnect with myself amidst nature’s gentle embrace.

Grandma’s Kitchen: A Feast for the Senses in St. Mawes

Oh yes, and let’s not forget the other major highlight of my Cornish retreat: an abundance of truly incredible food! My grandmother, with her rich history of successfully running Bed & Breakfasts for years, possesses an extraordinary gift for hospitality, and that unequivocally includes ensuring her guests are always wonderfully well-fed. From the moment I arrived, I was enveloped in a delightful culinary journey that left me utterly satisfied and perpetually looking forward to the next meal.

Our days were punctuated by an array of homemade delights. There were delicate, homemade tea cakes, perfect for an afternoon treat with a steaming cup of tea. Desserts often featured the freshest garden raspberries, plucked just hours before, served simply with a generous dollop of rich cream. And then there were the hearty, comforting main meals: perfectly roasted chicken, accompanied by tender roasted potatoes and runner beans picked literally minutes before from her vibrant garden. It was wholesome, delicious, and deeply nourishing – I was never, ever left hungry.

It felt as though, after every single meal, the promise of another delicious spread was already lingering, not-so-far in the future. And in true Cornish style, no meal was complete without the decadent additions of double cream, the iconic clotted cream (a thick, rich cream, often served with scones), and what we affectionately called “Granny slabs” – humongous, glorious slabs of butter, generously slathered on fresh bread. It was an indulgent, heartwarming experience that epitomized the warmth of her home.

I even had the wonderful opportunity to roll up my sleeves and spend some quality time in the kitchen. One memorable afternoon, we teamed up to make homemade apple compote, using baking apples that had been freshly picked from her very own backyard just moments before. The aroma of cinnamon and sweet apples simmering on the stove was intoxicating, filling the entire house with a comforting warmth. It was a truly satisfying experience to create something delicious from scratch, with ingredients so wonderfully fresh.

Our culinary adventures extended to the garden itself. Following our kitchen session, we ventured out for some raspberry and vegetable picking. Her garden was a bountiful wonderland, a testament to her green thumb. I was particularly amazed by her huge, seemingly never-ending bed of vibrant Swiss chard and lush spinach. It was a joy to harvest the freshest ingredients directly from the earth, knowing they would soon grace our plates.

The Essence of Cornish Life: Beyond Granny’s Table

Beyond the comforting haven of my grandmother’s home, St. Mawes offered a wealth of other simple pleasures. Whether it was exploring a local garden – perhaps a hidden gem tucked away behind a village lane, or a more formal, beautifully maintained estate – each discovery added to the charm of the visit. A trip to the village was never complete without savoring an authentic Cornish pasty, its golden pastry encasing a hearty, savory filling, a true taste of local tradition. Or perhaps a freshly baked scone, smothered with strawberry jam and that glorious clotted cream, enjoyed at a quaint cafe overlooking the harbor – the quintessential Cornish cream tea experience.

Mornings began with the delight of freshly baked bread, purchased the day before from the village bakery, its aroma filling the kitchen as we prepared breakfast. Other moments were spent simply cuddling up with a good book, the sounds of the village and the sea providing a soothing backdrop. By the time I reluctantly left St. Mawes for home five days later, the transformation was complete. The long journey and the initial fatigue had melted away, replaced by a profound sense of relaxation and rejuvenation. My mind felt clearer, my spirit lighter, and my energy fully recharged.

And yes, I must admit, the endless parade of delicious food meant that my pants felt ever-so-slightly tighter on the trip back home – a small, humorous price to pay for such an unforgettable and nourishing experience in the heart of Cornwall. St. Mawes, with its breathtaking beauty, rich history, and the incomparable warmth of my grandmother’s hospitality, truly felt like a hidden gem, and a perfect end to my overseas adventures. It’s a place that will forever hold a special corner in my heart, beckoning for a return visit.