Okavango Delta Day Two: Thrilling Lion Tracks, Majestic Leopards & Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters

Welcome back to our Okavango Delta honeymoon recap! If you haven’t yet, be sure to catch up on the incredible start to our adventure in Part One, where we introduced you to the magic of Botswana’s unparalleled wilderness. As we embarked on our second day, a palpable excitement filled the air. Could anything truly surpass the wonders we witnessed on our first game drive? Little did we know, the Okavango Delta had even more breathtaking surprises in store for us, promising an even deeper immersion into its vibrant ecosystem.

Early Mornings and Golden Sunrises

To truly experience the Okavango Delta’s incredible wildlife, embracing the rhythm of the bush is essential. This meant early starts, with wake-up calls usually between 5:30 AM and 6:00 AM. While not a typical leisurely holiday hour, the prospect of encountering magnificent animals made it effortless. We quickly adapted to early bedtimes, often by 9:30 PM, a testament to the soothing absence of internet and digital distractions – a true digital detox for the soul. The last thing we wanted was to travel all the way to Africa and sleep through a single moment of this unparalleled adventure. Before the sun even graced the horizon, typically around 6:30 AM or 6:45 AM, we’d navigate the short, flashlight-guided path to the main camp for a hearty breakfast with our guide. These morning game drives were extensive, usually lasting from 6:45 AM until 11:30 AM, maximizing our chances for unforgettable sightings.

The sunrises in the Okavango Delta were, without exception, breathtaking. Each morning presented a new canvas of vibrant colors painting the sky, casting a golden hue over the landscape. The tall grasses, resembling fields of wheat, shimmered and glistened in the soft, emerging light, creating a truly magical atmosphere that set the tone for the day’s adventures.

A Lively Baboon Troop

Our morning drive quickly delivered its first spectacle. Within just ten or fifteen minutes of leaving camp, we encountered a bustling troop of savannah baboons in a wide-open field. Their numbers were impressive, easily twenty to thirty individuals, ranging from playful youngsters to watchful adults. Capturing their dynamic energy through the lens proved to be quite a challenge, as these highly active primates were constantly on the move, darting and playing, making them one of the most difficult subjects to photograph during our entire safari. Despite the photographic hurdles, their antics were incredibly entertaining, especially the irresistibly adorable baby baboons clinging to their mothers or frolicking playfully. This early encounter reminded us of the sheer abundance of life in the Delta and the constant, unpredictable nature of wildlife viewing.

Tracking the Kings: Lions of the Okavango Delta

Our guide, Aubrey, knew precisely where to begin our lion quest. He skillfully maneuvered our vehicle back to the site where we had spotted the leopard the previous day, hoping for more predatory action. As we ventured through the tall grasses, we noticed the impala kill had been mostly consumed. To our surprise and delight, within mere feet of our safari jeep, a different male lion was finishing off the last remnants of the feast. Aubrey explained that this particular male was an outsider, encroaching on the territory of three much larger, resident lion brothers. As he cut the engine, a chilling, low guttural roar echoed in the distance – a clear warning from the territorial brothers. The solitary lion’s ears immediately perked up, and he cautiously began to retreat.

We discreetly followed, observing him take a quick drink, seemingly preparing for a journey. He then settled into a small clearing amongst some trees for a brief grooming session, his majestic form blending seamlessly with the dry vegetation. The camouflage of these incredible animals in their natural surroundings is truly remarkable – a testament to evolution’s perfect design.

Witnessing these powerful creatures in their undisturbed wild habitat is an experience unlike any other. For an animal lover, it transcends the confines of a zoo, offering an intimate glimpse into their true existence. The raw beauty and power on display are simply unforgettable.

The Quest for the Three Lion Brothers

The low growls from the distant lions continued to rumble through the air, their calls a powerful reminder of the untamed wilderness around us. Aubrey turned to us, a glint in his eye, and asked the question that sent a thrill through us: “Do you want to track the three male lion brothers?” Without hesitation, a resounding “Yes, please!” was our collective reply. Although the roars sounded deceptively close, perhaps a half-mile away, the pursuit turned into a thrilling, hour-long expedition across the Delta’s challenging terrain. Driving through water-logged areas and over incredibly bumpy ground, our pace rarely exceeded 5 to 10 miles an hour, making the journey feel even more epic.

Our guide’s tracking abilities were nothing short of astounding. Relying on subtle cues like occasional footprints barely visible on sandy patches (often where other vehicles had passed), he navigated us through the vast landscape. It was a masterclass in wilderness navigation, and frankly, it still feels miraculous that we managed to follow such elusive clues to find such magnificent animals. Just when we began to doubt, and the lion calls faded into silence, signaling that we might have lost their trail, Aubrey pressed on for just a little while longer…

A Magnificent Encounter: The Three Brothers

And then, there they were. Three colossal male lion brothers, resting regally in the dappled shade just off the dusty road tracks, panting gently in the rising heat of the day. They were incredibly close, perhaps only ten feet away from our vehicle. While we had seen other male lions, these three were truly monumental. Their sheer size was awe-inspiring, made even more striking by their magnificent black and orange manes that cascaded all the way down to their bellies, a sign of their age and dominance. Our guide and fellow guests informed us that these particular brothers had been observed together since they were tiny cubs, forming an unbreakable bond.

Remarkably, they seemed entirely undisturbed by our presence, offering us a profound sense of privilege. We spent well over 45 minutes simply watching them, completely mesmerized. This unforgettable encounter was, without a doubt, one of the most significant highlights of our entire Okavango Delta safari. Their piercing yellow eyes held a wisdom and beauty that felt almost spiritual, as if they had intentionally chosen that spot to grant us this extraordinary audience. It was a moment of pure magic, a once-in-a-lifetime privilege to witness such majestic creatures in their natural domain.

Afternoon Respite and the Call of the Wild

After such an exhilarating morning with the lions, the journey back to camp for lunch felt long, nearly an hour and a half of driving. Our afternoons were typically structured around a short break, allowing us just an hour or so to relax in our comfortable canvas tents. Despite the seemingly “doing nothing” nature of a safari, the constant adrenaline and intense focus required for spotting wildlife proved surprisingly exhausting, making afternoon naps a welcome luxury. It’s amazing how much mental energy goes into observing, tracking, and simply being present in such an electrifying environment!

Afternoon Game Drive: Wildebeest and Ancient Remains

Our afternoon game drive typically commenced around 3:30 PM and lasted until 6:30 PM, just as the sun dipped below the horizon. As we set out, we were greeted by familiar faces, including our ‘friend’ the elephant with the broken tusk, a unique individual we were always happy to spot. We also encountered our first larger herd of wildebeest, their distinctive silhouettes grazing against the vast African backdrop. However, the initial hour or so of this drive was relatively quiet, a gentle reminder that wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but always a gift.

A Glimpse into the Ancient Wild: The Hippo Skull

Then, in an unexpected turn, we drove into an open plain and stumbled upon a truly fascinating sight: a gigantic hippo skull and a section of its vertebrae. Until this point, apart from the fresh leopard and lion kills, we hadn’t encountered many animal remains. This discovery was remarkably poignant, and in its own strange way, just as thrilling as seeing live animals. It offered a raw, tangible connection to the cycle of life and death in the Okavango Delta.

Aubrey informed us that the hippo had likely perished in a fierce battle, most probably with another hippo, about five months prior. The sheer scale of the skull was impressive, with tusk-like teeth almost six inches long, giving it an ancient, almost prehistoric appearance. This grim find served as a powerful reminder of the hidden dangers of the Delta.

It’s a well-known fact that hippos are, by some measures, the most dangerous animals in Africa, responsible for more human fatalities each year than any other large mammal. This sobering thought made us even more grateful for the safety of our raised tents, realizing we might have been just feet away from these territorial giants the previous night. Hippos are incredibly protective of their territory, especially when it comes to access to water, which forms their primary line of defense against predators. Their formidable jaws and aggressive nature demand respect and a healthy distance.

The Elusive Leopard: A Golden Hour Sighting

After admiring the hippo remains, we continued our drive for another half hour, with only a few impala sightings interrupting the tranquil afternoon. It’s crucial to remember that while the Okavango Delta teems with life, the animals are masters of camouflage and vast spaces, making every sighting a treasure. Without an expert tracker like Aubrey, one could easily drive for hours and see very little. This reality made us appreciate our incredible fortune even more, as we reflected on how much we had witnessed in such a short time.

Just as I started to think our afternoon drive might be winding down without further significant encounters, Aubrey’s calm voice cut through the air: “There’s a leopard in the tree ahead of us.” My eyes immediately darted in the direction he indicated. We were still hundreds of feet away, and had he not pointed it out, I would have undoubtedly missed it. But there it was, after a moment of straining my vision, perched majestically in a huge tree, right in the center of a wide-open plain: a leopard.

We carefully approached the tree, stopping a mere 15 feet away. It was the same female leopard we had seen the previous day, now gracefully draped across a branch about 20 feet above us. She looked down, seemingly groggy but utterly majestic. This was an absolutely unbelievable moment. Unlike the previous day’s sighting where she was hidden in tall grass, today she was out in the open, in all her glorious splendor. It was literally jaw-dropping. To add to the perfection, the sun was just beginning its slow descent, bathing the entire scene in a warm, golden light that was nothing short of magical.

The scene was beyond picturesque. Her powerful legs straddled the massive branch, her elegant tail dangling gracefully on the other side. This was truly a once-in-a-lifetime sighting, and as expected, I probably captured over 200 photos. It’s incredibly difficult to lower your camera when faced with such breathtaking beauty, especially when an animal is posing so perfectly just feet away. Yet, I eventually forced myself to put the camera aside and simply immerse myself in the moment, engraving every detail into my memory.

After approximately 45 minutes, the leopard effortlessly leaped from the tree – a demonstration of agility that was both terrifying and mesmerizing to witness. She then slowly, deliberately, strolled off into the fading light. Aubrey explained that leopards typically spend their days lounging and conserving energy, only to become active hunters in the late afternoons and evenings, perfectly timed with the cooling temperatures and increasing prey activity.

It was only later that we realized Aubrey had been subtly tracking this very leopard throughout our entire afternoon drive, an incredible testament to his expertise and dedication. As the last rays of sunlight faded, we made our way back to camp, filled with an overwhelming sense of gratitude and excitement for the next day’s adventure – an all-day game drive, a special offer from our remarkable guide.

A Day of Unforgettable Moments and Anticipation

The day concluded with another spectacular Okavango Delta sunset, mirroring the previous evening’s beauty and leaving us with a profound sense of awe. Every moment, from the challenging pursuit of the lion brothers to the breathtaking encounter with the leopard in the golden hour, was etched into our memories as a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. We felt incredibly lucky to witness such a diverse array of wildlife in their natural splendor, guided by someone with Aubrey’s unparalleled knowledge and tracking prowess.

As we prepared for an exciting all-day game drive, our anticipation for what Part III of our Botswana honeymoon safari in the Okavango Delta would bring was immense. You absolutely won’t want to miss the next chapter of our incredible journey!