Exploring the Enchanting Amalfi Coast: A Day Trip to Ravello and Amalfi from Sorrento
Our Italian adventure continued with a highly anticipated day three, promising even more breathtaking vistas and cultural discoveries. After dedicating a full day to exploring the charming streets and vibrant atmosphere of Sorrento, we set our sights further south along the iconic Amalfi Coast. Our destination for the day: the picturesque towns of Amalfi and Ravello, each offering its own unique allure and historical significance.
Navigating the Amalfi Coast: The SITA Bus Experience
For this leg of our journey, we made a conscious decision to forego driving ourselves and instead opted for the local SITA bus service. This choice proved to be a stroke of genius, transforming what could have been a stressful drive into a relaxed and thoroughly enjoyable experience. The Amalfi Coast road is world-renowned for its dramatic, cliff-hugging turns and narrow passages, a challenge even for seasoned drivers. By taking the SITA bus (derived from “buS ITAlia”), we freed ourselves from the worries of navigating winding roads and, perhaps more importantly, the notorious hassle of finding parking in these bustling coastal towns. This allowed both of us to fully immerse ourselves in the spectacular panoramic views unfolding outside our windows, an invaluable benefit when traveling through such a visually stunning region.
The journey itself was an experience. There’s something uniquely confidence-inspiring about seeing multiple pictures of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary adorning the bus driver’s dashboard – a clear sign that faith and experience are guiding the way. Despite the road’s legendary reputation, the drive wasn’t nearly as terrifying as we had imagined. These local bus drivers navigate these challenging routes countless times a day, their expertise evident in every smooth turn and precise maneuver. While I admit to closing my eyes a few times, especially on the more dramatic bends, the overall sensation was one of awe rather than fear. For added peace of mind, we strategically placed Connor in the window (cliff-side) seat – a decision that, coming from someone who once bravely (or perhaps foolishly) went skydiving, speaks volumes about the road’s thrilling nature!
Embracing the Mood: Amalfi Coast Under Cloudy Skies
Interestingly, this day brought us what was probably our “worst” weather of the entire trip, with skies that were cloudy and draped in shades of grey. However, instead of dampening our spirits, this weather actually enhanced the dramatic beauty of the coast. The low-hanging clouds often hugged the mountainsides, creating a mystical, ethereal atmosphere that felt incredibly unique and even more beautiful than a clear sunny day. The diffused light cast a different kind of magic on the vibrant villages and the deep blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea, proving that the Amalfi Coast can enchant visitors in all its meteorological moods.
Ravello: A Hilltop Gem of History and Culture
Our SITA bus journey from Sorrento took approximately an hour to reach the town of Amalfi. From there, we took another short, but equally scenic, bus ride up into the hills to our primary destination: Ravello. Perched high above the bustling coastline, Ravello is a tiny, tranquil town with a rich and fascinating history. Founded in the 9th century, it once boasted a significant population of over 30,000 residents during its medieval heyday as a prosperous trading center. Today, it is home to only a few thousand, yet it retains an undeniable air of aristocratic charm and cultural prominence. Ravello is perhaps best known internationally as the host of the prestigious Wagner Arts Music Festival, an annual event that attracts classical music lovers from around the globe, solidifying its reputation as a haven for arts and culture.
The Heart of Ravello: Piazza del Duomo
Upon arriving in Ravello, one of the first places that captured our hearts was its main square, the Piazza del Duomo. This vibrant yet serene plaza is surrounded by stunning examples of historic Italian architecture, a characteristic I deeply wished we had more of back in the States. The intricate details of the buildings, the warm colors, and the inviting atmosphere of the square made it an ideal spot to soak in the local ambiance. We spent a delightful amount of time simply strolling, admiring the craftsmanship, and observing local life unfold, taking in every detail of this enchanting space.
Discovering Ravello’s Artistic Treasures: Hand-Painted Pottery
As we continued our leisurely exploration of Ravello, we stumbled upon a gem: an exceptional pottery shop. While there are numerous pottery shops scattered along the Amalfi Coast, this particular one stood out as by far the most impressive. Every single piece was hand-painted with incredible intricacy, showcasing a remarkable level of artistry and attention to detail. The vibrant colors and delicate patterns reflected the rich artistic traditions of the region, making it impossible to resist. We spent a good while admiring the exquisite craftsmanship, eventually succumbing to the temptation and purchasing a few unique treasures to bring a piece of Ravello’s artistry back home with us. These handcrafted souvenirs serve as a beautiful reminder of the skilled artisans who keep this tradition alive.
Villa Cimbrone: A Garden Paradise Above the Sea
After indulging a little too much in the beautiful pottery, we made our way to one of Ravello’s most celebrated attractions: Villa Cimbrone. This magnificent estate, originally built in 1905, is renowned for its breathtaking gardens that dramatically cascade down towards the coast, offering some of the most spectacular panoramic views imaginable. Today, Villa Cimbrone has been exquisitely converted into a luxury hotel, but its gardens remain accessible to the public and are widely considered to be among the most beautiful in all of Italy. As we wandered through the meticulously sculpted terraces, ancient trees, and classical statues, we were constantly met with awe-inspiring vistas of the azure sea stretching to the horizon. The most iconic spot, undoubtedly, is the Terrace of Infinity, where a row of classical marble busts overlooks the vast expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea, creating a truly unforgettable photographic moment.
Pretty stunning, wouldn’t you agree?
Exploring Villa Cimbrone, I noticed something interesting about my own comfort level: my threshold for standing next to cliffs seemed to increase exponentially each day we spent on the Amalfi Coast. What once might have given me pause now felt almost normal. The sheer scale and consistent beauty of the landscape had a way of desensitizing me to the dizzying heights, allowing me to fully appreciate the grandeur of nature’s artistry.
An Authentic Italian Lunch at Cumpa Cosimo
By this point, our stomachs were rumbling, signaling it was time to head back into the center of Ravello to find lunch. We followed a recommendation from our guidebook, leading us to a charming local spot called Cumpa Cosimo. This restaurant turned out to be far more than just a meal; it was an authentic Italian cultural experience. Approximately ten minutes after we were seated, the owner herself emerged from the kitchen to greet us. In quintessential Italian fashion, she was an absolute force of nature – extremely bossy in the most endearing way, incredibly generous with her hospitality, and delightfully opinionated. I absolutely adored her! Not to mention, she was utterly adorable in her pink sweater, frilly apron, and a huge purple scrunchie holding back her hair.
The food, as expected, was phenomenal – classic, hearty Italian fare prepared with love and generations of tradition. And to top off this memorable dining experience, at the end of our meal, she reappeared with her change purse, personally tallying our bill. It was a moment of genuine old-world charm that perfectly encapsulated the warmth and unique character of Italian hospitality. Dining at Cumpa Cosimo felt like being welcomed into a family home, an experience we cherished.
Auditorium Niemeyer: A Glimpse of Modern Architecture
By early afternoon, we decided it was time to start making our way back towards the bus stop to return to Amalfi. But before departing Ravello, we made a quick detour to check out the striking new concert hall, the Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer, located just before the town’s entrance. The building’s modernist design, with its flowing lines and distinct form, instantly reminded me of the iconic Sydney Opera House. Unfortunately, it wasn’t open for tours during our visit, so we could only admire its impressive exterior. Nevertheless, it was a fascinating example of contemporary architecture nestled within a town renowned for its ancient beauty, providing a stark yet intriguing contrast.
Unexpected Delays and a Glimpse of Amalfi
What followed was an unexpected test of patience. For reasons unknown, we ended up spending about an hour and a half waiting for the SITA bus to take us back down the hill to Amalfi. To compound matters, it chose this very moment to start raining! Our original plan had been to spend a good hour or so exploring the town of Amalfi itself, particularly its famous Duomo, a magnificent cathedral with an imposing staircase and a striking facade.
However, after such a prolonged wait and starting to lose a bit of faith in the punctuality of Italian bus schedules, we decided to adjust our plans. We opted for a quick five-minute walk around Amalfi’s main square, just enough time to catch a breathtaking glimpse of the beautiful Duomo (as seen above) and appreciate its architectural grandeur. With the rain starting to fall more steadily and the day drawing to a close, we then made the sensible decision to catch the next available bus directly back to Sorrento. While we wished we had more time to delve deeper into Amalfi’s charms, the fleeting sight of its iconic cathedral provided a memorable conclusion to our day trip, leaving us with a desire to return and explore it fully on another occasion. Despite the minor logistical hurdles, our journey to Ravello and the glimpse of Amalfi offered an incredibly rich and diverse experience of the stunning Amalfi Coast.