Unforgettable African Honeymoon: Our First Safari Adventures in Botswana’s Okavango Delta

Life has a funny way of unfolding, sometimes in the most unexpected and thrilling ways. Just a little over two weeks ago, my husband Connor and I were immersed in the breathtaking landscapes and vibrant wildlife of Africa, celebrating our honeymoon. Now, sitting back in our Chicago apartment, the memories feel both incredibly vivid and wonderfully surreal. It’s time to finally share the first chapter of our extraordinary adventure – a journey that felt like a dream.

This trip, however, was just one piece of an incredibly dynamic period. Three months prior, we were deep in the whirlwind of wedding planning, with no clear idea of the monumental changes just around the corner. Within eight short weeks, our lives took a dramatic turn: we discovered we would be moving to Chicago for the next five years, exchanged vows in a beautiful ceremony, found our new home in the bustling city, traveled across four different African countries, packed up our entire lives, embarked on a 700-mile U-Haul journey (with our sedated cat, Max, and my incredibly supportive, non-sedated parents in tow), and finally settled into Chi-town.

Reflecting on this whirlwind, I’ve felt a pang of guilt for the silence on my blog. My initial plans for keeping up with updates were, in hindsight, wildly unrealistic. Yet, despite the chaos, I feel remarkably good. Perhaps it’s a state of denial, or maybe the sheer scale of recent events has transformed me into the most relaxed version of myself. One thing is for sure: I have an abundance of stories to tell.

And where better to begin than with the honeymoon itself?

The Dream Honeymoon: Why Africa?

The decision to make Africa our honeymoon destination, specifically a safari adventure, was remarkably swift for both of us. A safari has been at the very top of our travel bucket lists for as long as we can remember. We both recognized that this opportunity, to embark on such a grand adventure, might not present itself again for many years. In fact, our honeymoon planning commenced even before we delved into the intricacies of wedding details.

Due to Connor’s demanding medical school schedule, we knew we’d have to postpone the honeymoon by a few weeks after our wedding. We literally departed the morning after his graduation and returned home with a mere seven days left to pack up our lives and move. It was a tight squeeze, but we were determined to make it work.

After consulting with a specialized travel agency, our focus quickly narrowed to Botswana, particularly the iconic Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park region, along with a portion of South Africa. Our choice was driven by several compelling factors. The time of year and water levels significantly impact game viewing, and Botswana consistently offers prime opportunities. Furthermore, we had heard countless glowing recommendations about Botswana from several family friends – its reputation for being remote, wild, and offering a truly authentic safari experience was irresistible.

Given Botswana’s proximity to Zimbabwe and Zambia, we decided to maximize our trip by including a two-night stay at the majestic Victoria Falls. We knew this itinerary was ambitious, perhaps even the antithesis of a typical “relaxing” honeymoon. However, our desire to immerse ourselves in as much of Africa’s natural splendor as possible during this once-in-a-lifetime trip outweighed any desire for a purely leisurely escape.

The Journey Begins: From Chicago to the Heart of Africa

On Monday, May 18th, our grand adventure officially began. We departed Washington, D.C., embarking on the long journey to Johannesburg, South Africa. To make the extensive flights more comfortable, we strategically utilized practically every airline mile we had ever accumulated, securing business class tickets on Ethiopian Airlines. Let me tell you, this was an investment absolutely worth every single mile. Fourteen hours later, we landed in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, for our connecting 5.5-hour flight to Johannesburg. We even had the unexpected pleasure of savoring some traditional Ethiopian food served on the plane – a delicious preview of the continent’s rich culinary heritage.

We arrived in Johannesburg in the early afternoon, feeling surprisingly well despite the extensive travel and initial pangs of jet lag. We spent one night at a charming, boutique hotel on the city’s outskirts, where we had the unique experience of trying springbok carpaccio – a culinary adventure in itself! After a much-needed night’s rest, we felt refreshed and ready for the next leg of our journey.

The following morning, we returned to the airport for a short regional flight to Maun, Botswana. Upon our arrival in Maun, the true safari experience began as we boarded a six-seat Safari Air puddle jumper, destined for our very first safari camp nestled deep within the Okavango Delta.

A six-seat puddle jumper is exactly as small and intimate as you might imagine! Connor even had the incredible experience of sitting in the co-pilot’s seat during one flight – I vividly remember repeatedly telling him, “Don’t touch anything!” the entire time. These small planes operate much like a bush-country bus service, making several stops along the way to drop off or pick up travelers heading to different camps. It’s a truly unique way to travel.

As we departed Maun, the world below us transformed. Paved airstrips gave way to incredibly remote, dusty dirt runways, situated right in the heart of the delta. These airstrips are so undeveloped that they lack lighting or signage, meaning planes cannot land or take off after dark. Often, our arrival was greeted by wildlife casually strolling across the runway – a delightful herd of warthogs, for instance, offered us our first charming welcome at our initial camp!

Botswana, a country roughly the size of France but with only two million residents, truly lives up to its reputation for remoteness. Our Safari Air flights ranged from 30 minutes to an hour, and during these journeys, we saw virtually no signs of human civilization. The vast, untouched wilderness stretching out beneath us was a powerful testament to Botswana’s wild character.

These puddle jumper flights offered an unexpected bonus: often flying just a few thousand feet off the ground, we had a fantastic aerial view, perfect for spotting wildlife. It was from our tiny Safari Air plane that we caught our very first glimpses of elephants, impalas, and wildebeest – a thrilling introduction to the rich fauna of the Okavango Delta.

Arriving in the Okavango Delta: Our First Safari Camp

The Okavango Delta itself is an ecological marvel, one of the largest inland deltas in the world, recognized as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa and a UNESCO Natural Heritage site. Its unique ecosystem, with year-round access to water despite varying water levels, sustains an incredible diversity of animal and bird life throughout the year.

Our first camp in Botswana, where we would spend the next three nights, was located barely half a mile from our dirt airstrip. Although we had left Johannesburg that morning, we didn’t arrive at camp until almost 4 o’clock in the afternoon. With most safari camps organizing morning and afternoon game drives daily, there was no time to waste! Within five minutes of settling in, we dropped off our bags and eagerly embarked on our very first safari game drive – the true beginning of our African wildlife immersion.

While our camp could accommodate around 18 guests, game drives were thoughtfully organized into small, intimate groups. This approach significantly enhanced the safari experience, making it far more personal and immersive. From that moment on, we were incredibly fortunate to travel with the same, exceptionally knowledgeable and experienced safari guide, Aubrey, and one other delightful guest, Cindy, for the remainder of our stay at this camp.

This small group dynamic was truly wonderful. It allowed us ample opportunity to get to know Aubrey, ask an endless stream of questions, and created a deeply intimate and memorable experience. His expertise and passion for the wilderness were infectious, enriching every moment of our exploration.

Unforgettable First Game Drive: Wildlife Encounters Up Close

Whether it was pure luck or the incredible skill of our guide, our inaugural game drive exceeded all expectations. Within just under three exhilarating hours, we encountered an astonishing array of wildlife. We saw our first elephants up-close, witnessed a leopard and a lion feasting on separate kills (a rare and humbling sight), observed playful baboons, majestic kudu, graceful impalas, busy warthogs, cunning jackals, and countless species of birds. It was an overwhelming introduction to the vibrant ecosystem of the Okavango Delta, a sensory feast that left us breathless.

Among the many magnificent creatures we encountered throughout our trip, one of my surprising favorites, seen on multiple occasions, was the kudu. These elegant antelopes are roughly twice the size of a deer, and the adult males possess the most strikingly beautiful spiral horns imaginable. On one occasion, we watched a magnificent kudu providing a ride to several oxpecker birds, who were diligently feasting on parasites and bugs from its back – a perfect example of nature’s intricate symbiotic relationships.

The Okavango Delta boasts an incredibly diverse and captivating landscape. While much of Botswana is remarkably flat, our drives took us through a spectrum of environments: vast, open plains stretching to the horizon, areas dense with shrubbery and small trees, and even through water that was often several feet deep, the jeep expertly navigating the watery terrain. It was a constant revelation of nature’s artistry.

Words struggle to capture the sheer beauty and wonder of this landscape, but what truly struck me, in an unexpected way, was the smell. I know it might sound strange, especially considering the abundance of wildlife, but we quickly discovered that the area is rich with wild sage and wild basil. As our jeep gently pushed through the tall grasses, the air would fill with their intoxicating aroma – a natural perfume that I wished I could bottle and take home.

Within just ten minutes of departing camp, we spotted our first male bull elephant. He had just finished a refreshing swim and was now calmly focused on eating. Naturally, my camera immediately came out, snapping pictures, under the assumption that we wouldn’t get much closer. For the trip, I had rented a mid-level telephoto lens along with an extender, essentially doubling its reach, believing it would be absolutely essential for capturing close-up shots during our safari drives.

I couldn’t have been more wrong. My pictures, however close they may appear, don’t fully convey the incredible proximity we experienced. It was rare that we were more than 30 feet away from any animal we encountered; most of the time, we were within a mere 10 to 20 feet. So, while the telephoto lens was a helpful and worthwhile bonus, providing stunning detail, it was far from strictly necessary for capturing the essence of these encounters. To give you a clearer idea: I was less than 20 feet from this magnificent elephant when I captured this photograph!

Meanwhile, Connor and I were grinning from ear to ear, clearly experiencing our first “safari high.” Just five minutes later, Aubrey, our guide, casually mentioned that he had tracked a female leopard earlier that day, not far off, feasting on an impala kill. We were heading there next. Honestly, we weren’t even sure if we’d be lucky enough to see a leopard during our entire trip, let alone within an hour of our very first game drive. The news was surreal and incredibly exciting, sending a jolt of anticipation through us.

Approximately twenty minutes later, we arrived in a grassy area. And there it was – just ten feet from the impala kill, perfectly camouflaged amidst the tall grass, lay the leopard. Our first leopard. Ten feet away from our safari jeep. It was truly unbelievable. Aubrey turned off the engine, and we spent over 20 minutes silently observing this magnificent creature simply lying there. It was exhilarating, yet undeniably a little terrifying at the same time. I had never anticipated getting this close to any wild animal, let alone a leopard. Even more surprising was its apparent indifference to our presence; it seemed almost bored by the whole situation.

We later learned that safari vehicles and their occupants are often perceived by animals as one large, benign object, similar in size to an elephant. This is why strict instructions are given to never stand up, extend limbs outside the vehicle, or make sudden movements – to maintain this perception. Despite this rational explanation, a part of me couldn’t shake the thought that it could leap onto the truck at any moment and make me its next meal. The thrill of being so close to such a powerful predator was truly an unparalleled experience.

Just thirty minutes later, our good fortune continued. We discovered our very first, relatively young, male lion, engrossed in eating a male kudu. Again, luck was definitely on our side that day, compounded by the sheer skill of our guide, Aubrey, who seemed capable of tracking virtually any animal print he encountered. We approached within about 15 feet of this magnificent beast, and he couldn’t have cared less about our presence. He was far too preoccupied with his dinner; we could actually hear the crunching of bones – a raw and powerful sound of the wild.

African Sunsets and Camp Life

At this point, sunset was drawing near. Being winter in Botswana, the sun typically dipped below the horizon around 5:30 PM, signaling our return to camp. I might sound like a broken record, but I cannot adequately describe the breathtaking beauty of the African sunsets, especially those witnessed during our game drives. For the first week and a half of our trip, there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky, allowing for unimpeded, spectacular displays of color. I quickly gave up trying to capture these ephemeral masterpieces, and equally stunning sunrises, on camera; their grandeur simply couldn’t be contained by a lens.

On our journey back to camp, we came across another impressive bull elephant, equally as large as our earlier sighting. The light at this golden hour was absolutely perfect, allowing me to capture what became some of my favorite elephant photographs from the entire trip. The way the soft, dying sunlight illuminated his magnificent form was truly magical.

Look at those chin hairs! This particular elephant, with his distinctive broken tusk, became affectionately known as the ‘broken tusk’ elephant. We were delighted to encounter him at some point almost every single day of our stay, a familiar and welcome presence in the wild.

Upon our return to camp, we enjoyed a delightful family-style dinner, sharing stories and laughter with our fellow travelers and guides. Afterward, we retired to our individual raised tents. While the camp provided the comfort of running hot water and electricity (powered by a generator), it was seamlessly nestled within a patch of trees, blending perfectly into the Delta’s natural environment. Despite an electric pole fence – which was less intimidating than it sounds and primarily served to deter elephants – the rest of the camp remained open and accessible to all surrounding wildlife. For this reason, we were always accompanied by a guide with a flashlight on our short walk back to our tents after dark, a small but constant reminder of our immersion in the wild.

That first night, the sounds of the Okavango Delta truly came alive. We awoke to the incredibly loud munching of a hippo, grazing on grasses just feet from our tent – a truly wild lullaby. A day or so later, we discovered fresh leopard tracks woven throughout the camp, and soon after, we identified a resident warthog that routinely sought refuge and sleep under one of the camp’s decked sitting areas each night. These moments cemented the feeling of being utterly connected to the raw, untamed beauty of Africa.

We went to bed that night, our hearts overflowing with gratitude for such an incredible first day at camp, and completely overwhelmed by the profound beauty of the Okavango Delta. If this was just the beginning, we knew things could only get even more spectacular.

Eager for more of our African honeymoon adventure? Continue reading with part two, discover an unforgettable elephant encounter in part three, explore Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls in part four, and journey to Kapama Game Reserve in South Africa in part five of our African honeymoon series.