Day 8: Hollandaise and Eggs Benedict

Mastering Culinary Arts: A Deep Dive into Hollandaise, Poached Eggs, and Classic French Techniques

After an invigorating four-day weekend, following an intense two days dedicated to sanitation, a slight apprehension settled in as Tuesday morning approached. The thought of losing our culinary rhythm after such a break fueled a familiar, albeit sometimes obnoxious, paranoia. I found myself waking frequently on Monday night, dreading the possibility of oversleeping and missing my alarm. Fortunately, my worries were unfounded; I arrived early, helped prepare the classroom, and was settled in my lecture seat by 7:00 am, ready for whatever the day held.

A quick glance at the whiteboard, revealing the day’s menu, instantly amplified my nerves. It was official: today was Hollandaise day. Our chef’s ominous moniker for it – “the sauce that smells fear” – echoed in my mind, a testament to its reputation as a true test of a chef’s skill and composure.

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The Challenge of Hollandaise: A Mother Sauce Unveiled

As tradition dictates, our freshly made Hollandaise sauce was destined for the iconic dish, Eggs Benedict. While Eggs Benedict has never been my personal favorite, the prospect of learning to craft this classic from scratch filled me with both excitement and a healthy dose of anxiety. This was our opportunity to truly grasp one of the culinary world’s foundational techniques.

Hollandaise holds a prestigious spot as one of the five classic mother sauces, a group that also includes Velouté, Tomato, Béchamel, and Sauce Espagnole (or brown sauce), which we’d soon master. Despite its reputation, Hollandaise is surprisingly simple in terms of its core ingredients: just five essential components – clarified butter, egg yolks, cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt. The use of clarified butter, which is butter heated to remove its milk solids and water content, is crucial. This process elevates its smoke point and, more importantly, facilitates a stable emulsification, making the sauce much easier to thicken and maintain.

During our lesson, we quickly learned that the actual act of making Hollandaise isn’t inherently difficult. The true mastery, and where most challenges arise, lies in its delicate maintenance. Holding the sauce and ensuring it doesn’t “break” (separate), curdle, or become too thick or thin is the real artistry. While this might be less critical in a home kitchen, in a bustling restaurant environment, precision and foresight are paramount. Ingredients must be prepped, and sauces held at optimal temperatures for service. This is where the “four enemies of Hollandaise” come into play: avoiding it being “too hot,” “too cold,” “too thick,” or “too thin” becomes a constant battle against separation and spoilage.

hollandaise

The basic technique involves gently heating egg yolks with a small amount of water over a bain-marie (a simmering double boiler). This gentle heat gradually cooks the yolks, increasing their volume and thickening them to a ribbon stage – a point where the whisk leaves a distinct path in the sauce. Once this consistency is achieved, the eggs are removed from the heat. This is the critical stage for emulsification: clarified butter is slowly, continuously whisked into the warm egg yolks (a ratio of one egg yolk to two ounces of clarified butter is a good starting point). Constant whisking is key to incorporating the butter into a stable emulsion, resulting in a smooth, creamy sauce.

Once the emulsion is formed, the final seasonings are added: cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. The lemon juice is perhaps the most vital component beyond the emulsion itself. It provides the necessary acidity to “cut” through the richness of the butter and egg yolks, brightening the flavor profile and preventing the sauce from feeling overly heavy or cloying. Our chefs emphasized that you should unmistakably taste the lemon in every spoonful, ensuring that diners are enticed to take another bite, rather than being overwhelmed by the sauce’s inherent richness. It’s this balance that elevates Hollandaise from merely a fat delivery system to a truly delectable culinary creation.

laura Davidson culinary school

Despite my initial apprehension, I was immensely proud of my Hollandaise. It remained perfectly emulsified, holding beautifully even after being prepared well in advance of service. While a little more lemon juice and seasoning would have perfected it, the structure and texture were spot on. A valuable tip we learned for salvaging a slightly broken Hollandaise is to vigorously whisk in a small amount of warm water. This can often help bring the emulsion back together, a crucial skill for any chef.

Perfecting Eggs Benedict: The Art of Poaching

Our flawless Hollandaise was destined to crown poached eggs, served Benedict-style. This day marked our inaugural attempt at making eggs in the program! Having attempted poached eggs a couple of times at home with limited success, I was particularly eager to learn the professional techniques to master this seemingly simple yet tricky preparation.

The process began with four inches of water, subtly acidulated with distilled white vinegar. The vinegar plays a vital role in tightening the proteins in the egg whites, helping them set more quickly and cleanly. We brought the water to a gentle heat, looking for tiny bubbles to form at the bottom of the pan, indicating the ideal poaching temperature just below a simmer. To prevent the whites from scattering upon impact with the water, we carefully cracked each egg into individual ramekins and then gently lowered them into the water. Initially, the eggs would sink, with their whites slowly tightening and encasing the yolk before eventually rising to the surface, signaling they were nearly done.

One of the most fascinating revelations was the restaurant trick for preparing and holding poached eggs. Since rushing to poach dozens of eggs minutes before service is impractical, we learned to poach them until the whites were mostly cooked, but the yolks still soft. These par-poached eggs were then immediately transferred into a sieve or basket, plunged into an ice-water bath to stop the cooking, and held there. Just before service, they would be quickly reheated in hot water. This brilliant technique allows restaurants to efficiently prepare massive quantities of Eggs Benedict without compromising quality, a testament to the ingenuity of professional kitchens.

I’m increasingly realizing that coordinating, holding, and reheating various food components for service is often the trickiest and most critical aspect of menu execution. It’s not just about cooking; it’s about timing and precision.

cream puffs

Beyond Benedict: Savory Sides and Sweet Treats

Accompanying our Eggs Benedict, we prepared LES POMMES DE TERRE SAUTÉES LYONNAISE and LES HARICOTS VERTS À L’ANGLAISE. In simpler terms, these were deliciously sautéed potatoes and onions, alongside plain blanched green beans. The Lyonnaise potatoes were a lesson in achieving perfect crispness: 1/4-inch slices were thoroughly dried, then cooked in clarified butter over high heat. The secret was to avoid overcrowding the pan, laying the slices in a single layer to ensure even browning. Each side was carefully flipped until golden, preventing them from sticking together. Once browned, thinly sliced onions were added and cooked until subtly caramelized, finished with a hint of thyme for classic diner-style potatoes.

Our day also included a foray into pastry with PÂTE À CHOUX, a versatile dough traditionally used for éclairs and, in our case, delightful CREAM PUFFS (as seen in the picture above!). While the technique is relatively straightforward, it demands meticulous attention during piping and baking. The goal is to bake the choux pastry until it’s very dry and almost hollow inside, creating the perfect cavity for filling. Once cooled, they were piped full of pastry cream, a recipe we’d become quite familiar with from previous lessons. My weekend practice truly paid off!

blanca

Work table partner of the day, Blanca!

All of these culinary creations were proudly served at lunch, a satisfying culmination of our morning’s intense work.

A Glimpse into the World of Meat Butchery

The afternoon session brought a brief but fascinating lecture with our school director, Chef Francois, who introduced us to the vast and intricate world of MEAT. Moving forward, each Tuesday afternoon will be dedicated to learning the art of meat butchery. This promises to be an incredibly interesting and informative series of lessons, especially for me, as I genuinely know almost nothing about this specialized culinary skill. I’m eager to expand my knowledge beyond just cooking, into the preparation and understanding of raw ingredients.

Now, I’m off to tackle my first paper for school, which I’ll be presenting tomorrow. Can you believe I wrote a four-page paper entirely on saffron? Sometimes, I have to pause and wonder, is this really my life? And what an exciting, challenging, and utterly unique life it’s becoming!

P.S. On a side note, this post is a little more delayed than I originally planned, because this afternoon I was sitting outside my apartment for over an hour due to a small fire in my building! Luckily, no one was hurt, and the fire department was able to extinguish it quickly. My apartment is three floors above the incident, but it still smelled faintly of smoke when I returned. What a strangely eventful end to an already packed culinary day!