Day 74: Rockfish, Rabbit Saddle, and Clafoutis

Culinary Journey Update: Week 20 – Mastering Rockfish, Rabbit Saddle & Blueberry Clafoutis

Another demanding yet incredibly rewarding week has zoomed by in culinary school, marking the beginning of Week 20. This particular week is exceptionally significant, as it culminates in our fifth, and notoriously challenging, practical exam this Friday. On top of that, we also face another comprehensive theory exam. The relentless pace keeps us on our toes, but the knowledge and skills we acquire are truly invaluable. This past week offered a fascinating blend of intricate techniques and wonderfully delicious results, serving as a testament to our growing culinary prowess and continually pushing our boundaries. It’s a constant juggle of mastering new recipes, refining existing ones, and diligently preparing for the high-stakes assessments that are crucial to our progress in this intensive program.

Reflecting on the array of dishes we created, the overall menu was exceptionally satisfying – a significant and welcome improvement compared to the more ‘adventurous’ sweetbreads from last week. Each plate this week felt like a triumph, a direct result of the detailed instruction we receive and the dedicated practice we put in. Let’s dive deeper into the gastronomic highlights and the specific techniques involved in this intensive week’s menu, detailing the artistry behind each component.

The Appetizer: Potato-Encrusted Rockfish with Green Olive Sauce

Our culinary exploration began with a truly delightful first course: a perfectly cooked potato-encrusted rockfish, beautifully complemented by a vibrant and tangy green olive sauce. This dish was an excellent exercise in precision, requiring delicate handling and attention to detail from the very start. The initial, fundamental task involved skillfully breaking down round fish – a technique that, while still requiring practice, sees me steadily improving with each practical session, leading to cleaner fillets and minimized waste. This foundational skill is critical for any aspiring chef.

The preparation of the rockfish itself involved an impressive and precise technique. We started by slicing potatoes to an almost translucent thinness using a deli slicer – a crucial step for achieving the desired crispy yet delicate texture. These paper-thin potato slices were then gently brushed with melted clarified butter, providing a rich, savory coating that would crisp up exquisitely during cooking. With meticulous care, we carefully wrapped these buttered potato layers around individual rockfish fillets, creating a protective and intensely flavorful crust. A sprinkle of fresh chives was incorporated not just for its subtle oniony kick, but also to add a touch of vibrant green color, significantly enhancing the dish’s visual appeal. Just before service, these potato-wrapped fillets were seared on both sides in a hot sauté pan, ensuring the fish cooked through gently while the potato crust turned a gorgeous golden-brown and became irresistibly crispy. This method effectively sealed in the fish’s natural moisture and delicate flavor, resulting in a moist, flaky fish enveloped in a delightful, crunchy exterior. The contrast in textures and the harmony of flavors truly made this dish stand out.

Crafting the Vibrant Green Olive Sauce

The accompanying green olive sauce was equally impressive and, surprisingly, quite straightforward to assemble once the techniques were understood. We began by blanching the green olives, a vital step to temper their inherent saltiness and achieve a more balanced and mellow flavor profile. These blanched olives were then blended into a smooth paste with an aromatic base of carefully sweated onions and finely minced garlic, along with a generous drizzle of high-quality olive oil. Fresh parsley and a splash of bright lemon juice were added, contributing herbaceous freshness and a crucial touch of acidity that cuts through richness. The secret ingredient, a subtle hint of Pernod, provided a delicate anise note that beautifully elevated the sauce, adding depth and a layer of complexity without ever overpowering the main ingredients. The harmonious blend of briny olives, sweet onions, pungent garlic, fresh herbs, and the unique touch of Pernod created a sauce that perfectly complemented the delicate fish and crispy potatoes. This dish quickly became a personal favorite, highlighting the importance of thoughtful flavor combinations and precise culinary execution in creating a memorable dining experience.

Rabbit Saddle Main Course Presentation

The Main Course: Stuffed Boneless Rabbit Saddle with Rich Braising Sauce

The main course presented a significant challenge, both in terms of intricate technique and flawless execution. Our focus was on a boneless rabbit saddle, an elegant cut that demands meticulous attention to detail and a remarkably steady hand. The most critical and delicate step involved carefully removing the spine from the rabbit saddle without puncturing its delicate skin – a true test of our advanced butchery skills and precision. Maintaining the integrity of the skin is absolutely paramount, as it forms the attractive exterior of the stuffed saddle, holding all the delicious components within.

Once expertly deboned, the rabbit saddle was generously filled with a flavorful and texturally diverse stuffing. This consisted of perfectly sautéed spinach, earthy sautéed mushrooms that added a savory depth, fluffy cooked quinoa for body and a pleasant chew, and sun-dried tomatoes, which provided a concentrated burst of sweet and tangy flavor. Each component of the stuffing was prepared to perfection, ensuring a harmonious balance when combined within the rabbit. To hold this intricate creation together during cooking and to provide an extra layer of moisture and richness, we carefully wrapped the stuffed rabbit saddles in caul fat. Caul fat, a lacy membrane of fat that naturally surrounds the internal organs of animals, is highly prized in classical cooking for its incredible ability to baste and protect delicate meats while adding a subtle, unique flavor. Its delicate network melts away beautifully during the cooking process, leaving the rabbit wonderfully moist, tender, and incredibly flavorful.

The Art of Braising and Sauce Creation

Following the stuffing and wrapping, the rabbit saddles then underwent a meticulous braising process. This involved cooking them slowly and gently in a rich, aromatic liquid, a method designed to tenderize the meat to perfection and infuse it with profound, complex flavors. The braising liquid itself was a masterpiece, crafted by first searing a classic mirepoix – a fundamental aromatic base of diced carrots, celery, and onions – along with the rabbit bones that had been expertly removed earlier. Searing these ingredients deeply caramelizes them, maximizing the flavor extraction. This rich mixture was then deglazed with a generous splash of dry white wine, meticulously scraping up all the flavorful fond from the bottom of the pan. Finally, a robust veal stock was added, creating a deep and savory base. This rich, aromatic liquid slowly enveloped the rabbit, slowly cooking it and imbuing it with layers upon layers of savory notes. Towards the end of the cooking process, this exquisite braising liquid was carefully strained and then reduced, concentrating its flavors significantly and thickening into a velvety, intensely flavored sauce. This luxurious sauce perfectly complemented the tender, intricately stuffed rabbit, elevating the dish to a truly gourmet experience.

Homemade Chive Pasta as accompaniment

Accompaniments: Fresh Homemade Pasta and Perfectly Prepared Asparagus

To elegantly accompany our exquisite rabbit saddle, we prepared fresh homemade pasta. This is a skill that we have now practiced extensively and are quite adept at, and one that we all strongly anticipate will feature prominently in our fifth practical exam this coming Friday. This repeated practice is crucial, ensuring that our technique is solid, consistent, and can be executed flawlessly under the pressure of an exam. To add an extra dimension of interest and a subtle, fresh flavor, we incorporated finely chopped chives directly into the pasta dough while it was being rolled. This thoughtful addition not only infused the pasta with a delicate herbaceous note but also created a visually appealing speckled green variation in color, making the dish even more engaging and vibrant. The resulting fresh pasta, tender and flavorful, was the perfect vehicle for soaking up the rich and complex rabbit braising sauce, enhancing every bite.

Alongside the pasta, we served simple yet elegant plain asparagus. Peeled, of course, to ensure maximum tenderness and a refined, clean presentation, these vibrant green spears offered a refreshing counterpoint to the richness of the main course. They provided a delicate crunch and a natural sweetness that cleansed the palate, completing the balanced composition of the plate.

Stuffed Rabbit Saddle with Pasta and Asparagus Presentation

The Dessert: Delightful Blueberry Clafoutis

Our dessert course was another absolute winner, concluding the meal on an exceptionally high and sweet note: a delightful blueberry clafoutis. Traditionally, clafoutis, a beloved classic French baked dessert, is made with cherries, often with their pits intentionally left intact. The pits are believed by some to prevent the cherry juices from bleeding too much into the batter and to contribute a subtle, almond-like flavor to the finished dessert. However, the inherent versatility of clafoutis allows for various fruit fillings, making it adaptable to seasonal availability. Since fresh cherries are not currently in season – and ironically, neither were fresh blueberries, though they were readily available – we opted for fresh, plump blueberries for their wonderful sweet-tart flavor and vibrant color. To add a layer of complexity and a touch of traditional cherry essence, we also thoughtfully incorporated a handful of griottes, which are dried cherries that have been beautifully rehydrated and infused with alcohol, adding both depth and a delightful boozy kick to the dessert.

Blueberry Clafoutis Dessert in a dish

The batter for clafoutis is remarkably simple to prepare, sharing a similar, pourable consistency to a classic crepe batter. It’s a straightforward yet elegant combination of all-purpose flour for structure, fragrant almond flour which adds a lovely nutty depth and tenderness, sugar for sweetness, rich cream, fresh milk, and eggs for binding, structure, and richness. The true beauty of this batter lies in its ease of assembly and its incredible versatility with different fruits. When baked, it transforms into a wonderfully moist, custardy dessert with a soft, tender crumb, beautifully studded with bursts of fruity flavor from the blueberries and the intensified griottes. I was genuinely impressed by how simple it was to make, yet how sophisticated, comforting, and utterly satisfying the end result proved to be. This delightful dessert has definitely made a lasting impression, and I can envision many more clafoutis variations emerging from my kitchen in the future, perhaps experimenting with other seasonal fruits.

Close-up of baked Blueberry Clafoutis with powdered sugar

Looking Ahead: Venison Preparation and Intense Exam Focus

We concluded this intense day in the kitchen by preparing the marinade for an exciting venison dish, which is scheduled to be cooked and served this Thursday. This forward-thinking approach is essential in professional kitchens, ensuring that flavors have ample time to develop and deepen, promising yet another exquisite meal. The anticipation for Thursday’s venison dish is particularly high, as working with game meat like venison offers its own unique set of culinary challenges and rewarding flavors.

As the week progresses, my focus will undoubtedly shift even more intensely towards rigorous study and preparation for the upcoming practical and theory exams. This period demands undivided attention, meticulous practice of techniques, and thorough revision of all the culinary knowledge we’ve accumulated so far. The demanding reality of culinary school often translates into seeking early nights whenever possible, as the days are long, physically demanding, and mentally taxing. While posting regular updates this week might be a bit sporadic due to the intensity of exam preparation, I am fully committed to keeping you all informed about my progress and culinary adventures as much as I possibly can. Wish me luck for the challenging yet exhilarating days ahead, as I aim to master these vital culinary assessments!