Day 20: A World of Flavors: Pork Apicius, Spanikopita & Crème Anglaise

Mastering Culinary Arts: A Day of French Fusion with Le Porc Aspicius, Spanakopita & Gourmet Desserts

A typical day in culinary school is always an adventure, and today was no exception. We delved into a menu that beautifully blended classic techniques with a touch of the exotic, proving that great cooking often lies in the fusion of flavors and the mastery of fundamentals. Our main focus was a rich and flavorful stew, LE PORC ASPICIUS, a dish named after the renowned ancient gourmet Apicius, showcasing how diverse culinary inspirations can converge in one exquisite plate.

Pork Aspicus - Tender Pork Stew

Crafting Le Porc Aspicius: A Stew of Depth and Flavor

While the name “Aspicius” might suggest something far removed from traditional French fare, the underlying technique for this savory pork stew bore a striking resemblance to that used for a classic Beef Bourguignon. The star ingredient was pork shoulder, a wonderfully tough cut of meat. Its inherent toughness is actually a culinary advantage, as it holds an abundance of flavor that only truly blossoms through long, slow cooking over low heat. This patient approach transforms the fibrous muscle into incredibly tender, melt-in-your-mouth morsels.

The unique character of Le Porc Aspicius comes from its distinctive flavor profile. It’s not just a stew; it’s a symphony of aromatic spices and unexpected pairings. We infused it with the vibrant golden hue and delicate fragrance of saffron, the warm, earthy notes of toasted and ground cumin seeds, the bright freshness of fresh mint, and the intriguing complexity of marinated dried fruit. Our dried fruit, a blend chosen for its sweet and tangy potential, had been prepared days in advance. It was steeped in equal parts red wine and red wine vinegar, along with a surprising addition of fresh mint and anchovy. While the anchovy might sound unusual, its role is not to make the dish taste fishy, but rather to add a deep, umami richness that enhances the overall savoriness without being detectable on its own – a true testament to the power of subtle seasoning.

The Art of Building Flavor: From Searing to Simmering

Working alongside my partner for the day, Tasha, we immediately got to work after our morning demonstration. The process began by meticulously trimming and cutting the pork shoulder into uniform, bite-sized pieces, ensuring even cooking. These were then generously seasoned with a simple yet effective blend of salt, pepper, precious saffron threads, and aromatic cumin seeds. The seasoned pork was then seared in canola oil over incredibly high heat. This crucial step creates a beautiful, caramelized crust on the meat, locking in juices and developing deep, complex flavors through the Maillard reaction. Once perfectly seared, the meat was set aside, allowing us to build the foundation of our stew.

Into the same pan, brimming with the flavorful fond left by the seared pork, we added a classic mirepoix – a trio of finely diced carrots, onions, and celery. These aromatic vegetables were gently sautéed until softened, forming a sweet and savory base. A small amount of concentrated tomato paste followed, adding a rich, umami depth and a hint of acidity. The pan was then deglazed with red wine, scraping up all the delicious browned bits from the bottom, which infused the liquid with incredible flavor. Finally, rich veal stock was added, creating a luxurious liquid base for our stew. The seared pork was then returned to the pot, covered with a specially cut parchment paper lid known as a cartouche – designed to fit snugly and prevent excessive evaporation while promoting tenderness. The entire pot was then transferred to the oven to slowly braise, allowing the tough pork to transform into succulent perfection just in time for lunch.

Pork Aspicus with Couscous and Asparagus

Perfecting the Sides: Aromatic Couscous and Fresh Asparagus

Once the pork reached its peak tenderness, we carefully removed all the mirepoix, which had imparted its flavor to the stew. The previously marinated dried fruit was then lightly cooked to soften and release its concentrated flavors before being reunited with the rich jus and tender meat. This exquisite Le Porc Aspicius was served alongside perfectly blanched asparagus and a remarkably flavorful couscous. Though I haven’t always been enthusiastic about couscous in the past, today’s rendition was a revelation – surprisingly delicious and wonderfully aromatic.

During our demonstration and lecture, we learned a traditional, hands-on method for preparing couscous that truly elevates its texture. We started with roughly two cups of dry couscous, adding a very small amount of water to moisten it. The trick lies in the next step: using your fingertips, you gently rub and crumble the couscous, breaking up any clumps that form. This process aerates the grains and prevents them from becoming gluey. A bit more water is added, and the crumbling is repeated, gradually tenderizing the couscous until it’s light and fluffy. This meticulous process ensures a perfectly separate and tender grain, far superior to simply boiling it.

We cooked our couscous in a specialized steaming pot called a couscous-erie, a two-tiered vessel where the couscous gently steams above a simmering pot of water, allowing for even cooking and delicate texture. While many methods exist, the couscous-erie truly highlights the grain’s potential. Once perfectly cooked, we enhanced its flavor by stirring it into a small amount of chicken broth, generously infused with additional saffron threads, delicate fresh julienned mint, and more ground cumin. The result was an exceptionally flavorful and aromatic side dish that perfectly complemented the robust stew.

Homemade Spanakopita - Savory Phyllo Pastry

Mastering Phyllo Dough: The Art of Spanakopita

For our “appetizer,” we embarked on an exciting new challenge: working with delicate phyllo dough for the very first time to create savory spanakopita – a personal favorite of mine! Phyllo dough, a staple in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines, is made from very high-gluten flour and meticulously stretched until it’s paper-thin, almost transparent. While making it from scratch is an impressive feat, we learned that for practical purposes, store-bought phyllo is often the preferred choice, saving immense time and effort without compromising quality for many applications.

Phyllo dough, typically found in boxed rolls in the freezer section, is notoriously temperamental. It can dry out incredibly quickly, becoming brittle and unusable if not handled with care. Our Chef Somchet emphasized the critical importance of proper mise en place (everything in its place) before even unwrapping the dough. This preparation is paramount to success:

  • Clarified butter (and plenty of it!): This is non-negotiable. Clarified butter is brushed between each delicate phyllo layer, creating the distinct crispness, flakiness, and rich flavor that defines phyllo pastries. Its high smoke point and pure fat content are ideal for achieving the desired texture.
  • Damp towel: A slightly damp kitchen towel is essential for covering any phyllo sheets you aren’t actively working with, protecting them from drying out and becoming brittle.
  • Pastry brush: For evenly applying the clarified butter to the ultra-thin sheets.
  • Big cutting board: Provides ample space for handling the large, delicate sheets of phyllo without tearing.

And let me assure you, trying to substitute healthier alternatives like olive oil simply won’t yield the same results! Trust me, I asked. Chef explained that using a different type of fat will inevitably make the phyllo less light and give it an unpleasantly greasy texture after baking, rather than the desired crisp, airy flakiness. There’s truly no way to circumvent using a generous amount of butter in culinary school when perfection is the goal!

Homemade Brioche Bread - Loaf Pans

The Rewards of Patience: Fluffy Brioche Bread

Beyond our savory dishes, the world of baking continued to tempt us. Today, we finally finished baking our brioche bread, which we had prepared yesterday. The wait was worth it; it turned out absolutely beautifully! I couldn’t resist sneaking a couple of delicious bites during our lunch break. While we didn’t use it in today’s menu, this rich, tender, and slightly sweet bread is incredibly versatile. It’s destined for future culinary delights next week, likely transforming into luxurious French toast, comforting bread pudding, or any number of other classic preparations – the possibilities truly are endless.

Despite requiring significant resting and proofing time, brioche bread is surprisingly simple to make, relying more on patience than complex techniques. Its characteristic soft, airy crumb and rich flavor come from its high butter and egg content, which also necessitate the longer proofing periods to allow the yeast to work effectively in such a rich dough. The picture above beautifully illustrates one of the final stages of preparation: rolling the dough into individual two-ounce strips and carefully arranging them in a loaf pan. This specific shaping allows for an even rise and an appealing, segmented appearance in the finished loaf. After this shaping, it undergoes one final rise before being baked to golden perfection. Having now mastered it in class, I am eager to try making this wonderful bread at home!

Homemade Brioche Bread - Proofing in Loaf Pan

A Sweet Ending: La Galette aux Framboises with Crème Anglaise

Of course, no culinary school lunch is complete without a proper dessert! It’s a daily necessity, and admittedly, a constant temptation that I find hard to resist. Today’s sweet creation was LA GALETTE AUX FRAMBOISES, an elegant cookie-based dessert. We crafted delicate galette cookies, made from a rich, buttery dough. After baking, these crisp cookies were immediately cut into charming scalloped discs while still warm, ensuring their perfect shape.

Shortbread Cookies - Galettes for Dessert

To assemble our dessert, we piped a generous dollop of vibrant lemon curd (a delicious leftover from yesterday’s class) onto the bottom cookie, then topped it with a scattering of fresh, plump raspberries. A second galette cookie was then carefully placed on top, creating a delightful sandwich. Just before service, each of these exquisite cookie sandwiches was placed atop a bed of silky smooth crème anglaise – a classic custardy, cold sauce that we had prepared the previous day. To add a final touch of visual appeal and a burst of contrasting flavor, the crème anglaise was delicately garnished with a swirl of rich blackberry coulis, tying the entire presentation together.

Creme Anglaise - Dessert Base

Our chef humorously remarked that the presentation might strike some as a bit “80’s and dated,” but there’s an undeniable charm and elegance to this classic plating that makes it beautiful nonetheless. Despite its seemingly simple concept, this dessert was truly exceptional. The luxurious creaminess of the crème anglaise provided a perfect counterpoint to the crisp texture of the galette. Meanwhile, the bright tang of the lemon curd and the fresh raspberries cut through the richness, creating a wonderfully balanced and refreshing taste experience. A truly satisfying end to our meal!

Creme Anglaise Dessert - Plated Raspberry Galettes

Reflections on Culinary Life and Learning

Long gone are the days of healthy salads and brothy soups that once dominated my diet. My culinary school journey has undeniably embraced richer, more decadent flavors. Thankfully, the vigorous cleaning sessions that follow each lunch provide an excellent opportunity to burn off some of those delightful calories!

Today, our class finished with unusual speed, which gave me a much-needed window of opportunity. I finally got the chance to deliver my presentation for the paper on saffron that had been due weeks ago. Public speaking isn’t my favorite activity, but it went surprisingly well, especially since I’ve come to know all my classmates so well at this point. It was a huge relief to finally get it over with, and I felt a great sense of accomplishment. Looking ahead, our next report assignment is on fruits, and I’ve been assigned the delightful task of researching raspberries and blackberries.

It’s still quite surreal to think that my daily life now involves writing extensive reports about fruits and spices, among countless other culinary subjects. This is officially my life now, and I must admit, I like it. A lot. Every day brings new techniques, new flavors, and a deeper appreciation for the intricate art of cooking. The journey through culinary school is proving to be as enriching as it is delicious.