Mastering French Culinary Classics: A Deep Dive into Tarts, Veal Blanquette, and Velvety Pea Soup
Week four, day one, of our culinary journey has been an incredibly insightful experience. Each day, I leave class genuinely impressed by the sheer volume of techniques and dishes we manage to master, even as the intensity of service often keeps us moving at a rapid pace. Today’s menu was particularly exciting, introducing a host of new culinary challenges and a fresh face in the kitchen.
We had the pleasure of being taught by Chef Somchet, a new addition to our faculty, who brings a delightful energy and expertise from Thailand. She will be guiding us through the intricate world of pastries from now on, with the promise of incorporating some tantalizing Asian dishes whenever our schedule allows. Her first lesson with us was a memorable one, filled with laughter and delicious results.
The Art of Pastry: La Tarte aux Poires Bourdaloue (Poached Pear Tart)
Our pastry for the day was none other than LA TARTE AUX POISES BOURDALOUE, or a beautifully delicate poached pear tart. This classic French dessert is a testament to the elegance achievable with simple, quality ingredients.
The foundation of this exquisite tart was a pâte sucrée tart shell, known for its crumbly, cookie-like texture and sweet flavor. Unlike many tart shells that require blind baking, this one was destined for an unbaked start, as its frangipane filling demands significant oven time, baking simultaneously with the crust to perfection.
Crafting the Frangipane and Poached Pears
After expertly rolling out and shaping our tart shells, we turned our attention to the heart of the tart: the frangipane filling. This luscious, almond-based cream is deceptively simple to prepare, yet yields an incredibly moist and flavorful result. Our frangipane comprised a harmonious blend of softened butter, granulated sugar, fine almond flour, eggs, fragrant vanilla extract, bright lemon zest, a hint of rum, and a tiny bit of all-purpose flour, all creamed together in our stand mixers until light and fluffy.
Simultaneously, we embarked on the delicate task of poaching our pears. This process began with carefully peeling the pears and rubbing them with lemon juice to prevent any undesirable oxidation. After coring them, they were gently submerged in a simple syrup, infused with half a vanilla bean, and brought to a bare simmer. The key here is low and slow cooking, allowing the pears to become fork-tender without disintegrating. Once perfectly cooked, they were removed and immediately placed in an ice bath to halt the cooking process and preserve their pristine texture. We then sliced them uniformly, preparing them for assembly.
Assembling and Baking the Tart
With our components ready, assembly was a breeze. We filled each tart shell halfway with the rich frangipane using an offset spatula, creating an even base. Then, the elegantly sliced poached pears were artfully arranged in a circular pattern on top. The tarts were then baked for approximately 45 minutes, during which the frangipane gracefully expands, creating a beautiful domed top. Upon exiting the oven, a final touch of warm apricot glaze was brushed over the entire tart, imparting a stunning shine and a subtle fruity sweetness. The result? A tart that was as pretty to look at as it was absolutely delicious to eat!
Mastering Savory Classics: La Blanquette de Veau à l’Ancienne aux Champignons
Our main dish brought us into the world of savory French classics: LA BLANQUETTE DE VEAU À L’ANCIENNE AUX CHAMPIGNONS—a traditional veal blanquette served with tender pearl onions and sautéed mushrooms. A blanquette is, at its heart, a luxurious, creamy white stew, deriving its name from the French word ‘blanc’ (white) due to its pale, elegant sauce. Having worked with chicken and fish last week, we were quickly progressing to more diverse proteins. For many of us, including myself, this marked our first time cooking veal!
Preparing the Veal: From Tough Cut to Tender Delicacy
Today, we utilized veal neck, a cut celebrated for its deep flavor, though inherently tough. This characteristic necessitates a long, slow cooking process over low heat to break down the connective tissues and render the meat incredibly tender, without shrinking or losing its precious moisture and fat. We began by meticulously trimming all excess fat and the tough silver skin from the veal neck – a crucial step for a refined stew. The meat was then cut against the grain into uniform chunks, preparing it for its long, transformative simmer.
The trimmed veal was then covered with cold stock – an essential technique. Using cold liquid ensures that impurities and any remaining excess fat slowly render out and rise to the surface, allowing for easy skimming. If warm stock were used, the veal would cook too quickly, sealing in fats and impurities we aim to remove. The pot was then brought to a gentle heat, not even a simmer, allowing the slow release of flavor and impurities.
Building the Flavor Base and Thickening the Sauce
As the veal slowly warmed, we carefully skimmed any foam and excess fat from the surface. This step is vital for a clear, clean-tasting stew. Next, we introduced our aromatics: an onion piqué (half an onion studded with cloves) and a bouquet garni, a bundle of fresh herbs—carrot, leek, celery, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley—tied securely with string. These fragrant additions imparted a complex depth of flavor to the cooking liquid.
The veal continued to cook gently for at least an hour or two, patiently transforming until it was fork-tender. Once achieved, we carefully strained the meat, reserving the flavorful cooking liquid. This liquid was then passed through a chinois, a fine-mesh conical sieve, to ensure a perfectly smooth and impurity-free base for our sauce. The tender veal was set aside.
To thicken the reserved liquid, we prepared a roux, a classic French thickening agent made from equal parts flour and butter cooked on the stovetop. This roux was whisked into the strained cooking liquid, bringing it to a rich consistency. Then, for that signature blanquette creaminess, a touch of heavy cream was added, followed by a surprising, yet traditional, ingredient: an egg yolk. The egg yolk, whisked in off the heat to prevent scrambling, is a classic method to further thicken and enrich a blanquette de veau, giving it a luxurious mouthfeel and a beautiful pale hue.
Finally, the tender veal was returned to the finished stew sauce, along with perfectly cooked pearl onions (which, as anyone who’s peeled them knows, are quite a task!) and beautifully sautéed button mushrooms. Oh, and the carrot from our bouquet garni, now soft and flavorful, was finely chopped and added back into the stew for extra sweetness and texture. This magnificent blanquette was then served alongside a fragrant rice pilaf.
I understand that the idea of an egg yolk in a savory stew might sound a little unconventional, but trust me, this dish was truly exceptional. It’s often the case that I approach a new recipe from the morning’s menu with a degree of skepticism, only to find myself thoroughly enjoying the end result. It’s a wonderful reminder of why these dishes have earned their status as beloved classics!
The Day of Soups: Le Potage Saint Germain (Pea Soup)
Today was officially a day dedicated to comforting soups and stews. In addition to our substantial Blanquette de Veau, we also prepared a vibrant LE POTAGE SAINT GERMAIN, a classic French pea soup. The ‘Saint Germain’ designation is a nod to the region in France where this delightful dish originated, and specifically indicates that it is made with peas.
This pea soup proved to be surprisingly simple to make and incredibly delicious, even for someone like myself who isn’t usually a fervent pea enthusiast! We started by sweating finely diced leeks and celery in a pot, softening them without browning to create a sweet aromatic base. Stock was then added, followed by frozen peas. For additional depth of flavor and aromatics, we incorporated a generous chunk of bacon (a recurring theme of deliciousness!), minced garlic, fresh thyme, parsley, and a bay leaf. The bacon, though not always present in every variation, added a smoky, savory dimension that was simply irresistible.
After simmering for a while to allow the flavors to meld beautifully, the soup was transferred to a blender and pureed until incredibly smooth. To achieve an even silkier texture, it was then passed through a chinois, ensuring no fibrous bits remained. Just before service, a technique known as “monte au beurre” was employed: a pat of cold butter was whisked vigorously into the hot soup. This not only enriches the flavor but also gives the soup a beautiful sheen and a luxuriously smooth finish, making it truly attractive and extra tasty.
For garnish, we prepared homemade croutons, quickly sautéed to a golden crisp in a pan, and diced up the bacon that had flavored the soup, adding a delightful crunch and salty bite to each spoonful.
Reflections on a Culinary Day Well Spent
This entire menu felt like the perfect antidote to a cold, winter day. I’m incredibly grateful that I began this culinary program in January, as it means I can truly savor and appreciate all these wonderful, hearty soups and stews we are learning to prepare. I can hardly imagine eating such rich lunches in the sweltering heat of summer!
Overall, today felt remarkably relaxed, especially when compared to our incredibly challenging menu last Friday. While the end-of-service rush to plate everything perfectly is a constant, there was a palpable sense of control throughout most of the day. It’s always a satisfying feeling when things run smoothly in a bustling professional kitchen!
Now, my focus shifts to preparing for my first significant hurdles: the practical and theory exams scheduled for this Thursday. Additionally, our meticulously compiled recipe notebooks are also due, a project I’ve yet to properly introduce to you all. More on that soon!
Happy Monday to all, and bon appétit!