Discovering Cordova, Alaska: A Deep Dive into Copper River Salmon, Sustainable Fishing, and Wild Alaskan Adventures

Following up on my initial impressions, this post plunges deeper into the heart of my extraordinary journey to Cordova, Alaska, alongside the dedicated team at Copper River Salmon. If you missed the first part of this adventure, where I detailed the initial excitement and breathtaking flight-seeing, you can catch up on Part I here.

My time in Cordova, though brief at just three full days, was meticulously filled with incredible experiences, thoughtfully curated by the wonderful people at Copper River Salmon. Each activity offered a unique perspective on this remarkable region and its most famous export. After the exhilarating flight-seeing on day two, our evening concluded with an insightful tour of the Copper River Seafoods processing facility, one of three major salmon processing plants nestled in Cordova.

The Unrivaled Quality of Copper River Salmon: A Lesson in Freshness

One of the most profound lessons I learned revolved around what truly sets Copper River salmon apart. Nearly every salmon caught by local Cordova fishermen undergoes immediate bleeding and icing directly on the water, moments after being harvested. This isn’t just a minor operational detail; it’s a critical practice with immense impact. This meticulous attention ensures unparalleled quality, freshness, and flavor, differentiating Copper River salmon from virtually any other on the market. The swift processing minimizes stress on the fish and preserves its delicate texture and rich taste, a testament to the fishermen’s dedication.

The supply of fresh Copper River salmon is intentionally limited, a conscious effort to maintain the health and sustainability of the entire watershed and its vibrant salmon populations. This commitment means that this highly prized fish is only available for a few precious months each year. This scarcity underscores its value and the importance of responsible consumption.

My biggest piece of advice, and undoubtedly one of the most significant takeaways from this entire trip, is simple yet profound: **know your fisherman.** This principle, I believe, extends to all our food choices, but it is particularly crucial when it comes to seafood. Don’t hesitate to ask questions—then ask a few more! Inquire at your grocery store, at your favorite restaurant, or directly from your fishmonger. Understanding the source of your food empowers you as a consumer. The food industry, like many others, evolves and adapts based on our purchasing decisions. It is our collective responsibility to steer it towards more sustainable, healthful, and environmentally-friendly practices.

Immersive Culinary Experiences and Local Flavors

That very evening, after our fascinating tour of the processing facilities, we were treated to a heartwarming potluck dinner at the home of local fishermen, Bill and Renee Lindow. This intimate gathering was a true highlight, offering a genuine taste of Cordova’s community spirit. We savored incredible Coho salmon sashimi, showcasing the raw purity of the fish, alongside perfectly grilled salmon served with miso butter. As we gathered around the dinner table, the air was filled with captivating stories from various fishermen and women, sharing their lives, their challenges, and their deep connection to the sea. These candid conversations created an unforgettable atmosphere, revealing the passion and dedication that defines the Copper River salmon industry.

The night concluded on a sweet note with homemade desserts crafted from locally foraged berries: a delightfully tart low-bush cranberry pie and a rich salmon berry cheesecake. Each bite was a celebration of Alaska’s natural bounty.

The following morning began with another invigorating dock walk, followed by a casual yet memorable bagels-and-lox breakfast aboard fisherman John Bocci’s boat. As we gently cruised out into the harbor, we were treated to captivating views of seals and sea lions lounging on buoys, their playful antics adding to the serene morning. John Bocci graciously shared his extensive experiences and fascinating fishing stories, offering us a window into the daily life of a seasoned Alaskan fisherman. His hospitality was boundless, even when I, in a moment of clumsiness, managed to spill coffee all over the floor of his sleeping cabin. Such moments, both perfect and imperfect, truly embody the authenticity of travel.

After our inspiring boat ride, we headed to the local gem, Baja Taco, for lunch. This unassuming food truck, ingeniously converted from a school bus and only operational during the summer months, holds the esteemed title of serving the best fish taco in all of Alaska. We were eager to experience its legendary flavors firsthand.

It was my first time trying salmon-battered tacos, complete with crisp cabbage and a zesty chipotle mayo. They were every bit as delicious as they sounded, a true testament to the versatility and quality of Copper River salmon. The fact that I had been enjoying salmon at almost every meal for four consecutive days, yet still craved more, speaks volumes about its exceptional taste and the innovative ways locals prepare it.

Into the Wild: Mushroom Foraging in Cordova’s Lush Forests

Later that afternoon, we embarked on one of the most memorable and unique experiences of the entire trip: wild mushroom foraging. Every September, the Cordova Chamber of Commerce proudly hosts the annual Cordova Fungus Festival, an event that draws visitors from across the country. This three-day festival educates participants on local mushroom varieties, teaches the art of foraging, and culminates in a wild food banquet prepared by a visiting chef. On this particular trip, the culinary honors fell to Derek Baril, chef of Wild Standard in Boulder, Colorado, who was also one of our fellow attendees.

Many of Cordova’s fishermen and fisherwomen are also passionate mushroom foragers. We had the distinct privilege of joining one of the most talented among them, Curly Hershlieb, for our afternoon excursion. Armed with traditional wooden baskets, we ventured directly into the dense woods – there were no discernible paths, just an immersive dive into the Alaskan wilderness. The forest was breathtakingly lush, vibrantly green, and carpeted with moss, creating a surreal and almost otherworldly environment. The ground beneath our feet felt alive, a rich tapestry of decomposing matter, fueling new growth. It was truly an incredible sensation.

A fascinating ecological connection was revealed during our foraging adventure: the life cycle of Copper River salmon directly contributes to the thriving wild mushroom populations in Cordova. Salmon, after spawning, are often picked up by hawks, eagles, and other birds along the rivers. Their carcasses are frequently dropped into the surrounding forests, where they decompose. These decomposing salmon provide vital nutrients that enrich the soil, supporting the growth of diverse fungi and sustaining the entire forest ecosystem. It’s a powerful example of nature’s interconnectedness and the full-circle sustainability present in Cordova.

While many of the mushrooms we encountered were inedible, Cordova boasts a delightful array of edible varieties. We learned to identify winter chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, chicken of the woods, and hedgehog mushrooms, among others. We spent close to two hours immersed in the forest, walking slowly and meticulously, with our eyes peeled for these culinary treasures. The focus required, the quiet beauty of the surroundings, and the thrill of discovery made it an incredibly engaging experience.

The following evening, my fellow traveler, Julia, and I had the pleasure of preparing all the edible mushrooms we had foraged for our final potluck dinner. This feast was complemented by a magnificent whole Coho salmon, caught just two days prior by the husband of Christa, one of Copper River Salmon’s executive directors. Cooking and sharing food sourced directly from the land and waters of Cordova was a deeply rewarding conclusion to our foraging adventure.

The Thrill of Sport Fishing on the Eyak River

Our last full day in Cordova was dedicated to the exhilarating experience of sport fishing on the Eyak River, hosted by the renowned local Orca Adventure Lodge. For the first time in my life, I donned full waders, a rather comical but necessary ensemble. Indeed, this was only the second time I had ever fished in my twenty-nine years. Whether it was the breathtakingly remote, quiet, and tranquil surroundings, or my newfound appreciation for these magnificent salmon after the previous three days of immersion, I absolutely adored the experience. It was a moment of profound connection to the Alaskan wilderness.

It happened to be a slightly slower day for fishing, with only five salmon caught among the four of us over more than seven hours. This truly is not easy work, requiring patience, skill, and a deep understanding of the river. To my utter amazement and delight, I managed to reel in two of them! The lodge provided an excellent service, filleting and flash-freezing our catch, preparing them perfectly for our flight home the next day. My freezer is now proudly stocked with over 10 pounds of pristine Coho salmon, and I eagerly anticipate savoring it over the coming months, each meal a delicious reminder of this incredible adventure.

A Sustainable Cycle in Full Circle: Reflecting on Cordova’s Legacy

On our departure day, Monday, we managed to squeeze in a few quick hours before our flights home. We used this precious time to drive to Power Creek and visit the spawning streams, where we witnessed the incredible sight of salmon just beginning their arduous journey to spawn. It was a powerful, full-circle moment, observing the very start of the sustainable cycle that underpins Cordova’s existence and the legacy of Copper River salmon.

This trip to Cordova has undoubtedly left an indelible mark on me, and I sincerely hope it inspires you too. As Dan Barber, one of my favorite authors and chefs, eloquently states, “when you pursue great flavor, you also pursue great ecology.” I couldn’t imagine a more accurate or fitting description for Copper River salmon and the resilient, passionate people of Cordova. Their dedication to preserving both the unparalleled flavor and the pristine ecology of their home is truly commendable. It’s a reminder that truly exceptional food is inextricably linked to the health of our planet and the communities that nurture it.

Disclosure: My trip and travel expenses to Cordova were covered by Copper River Salmon Marketing. I received no monetary compensation for my time or for the creation of this blog post. It was an honor to experience and share this incredible journey with you.