Culinary School Day 5: Mastering Classic French Techniques, From Creamed Potato & Leek Soup to Citrus Confit and Chicken Butchery
As another demanding week at culinary school draws to a close, my journey into the intricacies of French cuisine continues to unfold with new challenges and profound learning experiences. Today, Day 5, was a perfect encapsulation of this adventure, blending advanced cooking techniques with a touch of unexpected kitchen drama and exciting extracurricular opportunities. While a minor camera mishap meant relying on my phone for photos – which, thankfully, captures decent images – it did highlight the ever-increasing complexity of our dishes, making it progressively harder to document every step of the cooking process. Each day brings forth more elaborate menus and sophisticated methods, pushing us to refine our skills and adapt to the fast-paced environment of a professional kitchen.
Day Five of our intensive culinary program presented a diverse and educational menu. We delved into the creation of another classic French potage, a refreshing salad featuring celery root and apple dressed in a homemade remoulade, and a delightful light dessert of oranges accompanied by exquisite zest confit. This particular day felt considerably less pressured than the previous one, especially regarding tight deadlines and intricate details. Nevertheless, it remained a comprehensive and time-consuming session, packed with a plethora of new culinary techniques that demanded our full attention and dedication.
The Art of Potage: Creamed Potato and Leek Soup (Potage Julienne Darblay)
Today’s primary focus in the soup department was a luxurious creamed potato and leek soup, traditionally known as Potage Julienne Darblay. This rich and comforting dish was elevated by a delicate garnish of finely julienned celery, carrot, and leek. Enthusiasts of cold soups might recognize its chilled counterpart, vichyssoise. Crafting this potage introduced us to several novel techniques and specialized pieces of equipment that we hadn’t encountered until now, truly expanding our culinary repertoire.
Techniques Behind the Perfect Potage
The foundation of this exquisite soup begins with carefully sweating the leeks. This crucial step involves cooking the leeks slowly over low heat without allowing them to gain any color, ensuring their sweet, delicate flavor is preserved and forms the aromatic base for the soup. Following this, vegetable stock is added, along with a bouquet garni – an essential flavor sachet comprising peppercorns, fresh thyme, parsley stems, and a bay leaf, all bundled in cheesecloth. This aromatic bundle infuses the liquid with depth and complexity, which is then removed before serving.
Roughly chopped potatoes are introduced next, and the mixture is left to simmer gently until the potatoes are perfectly tender. Once cooked, the entire contents are transferred to a blender, creating a smooth and creamy consistency. The mixture is then passed through a chinois, an exceptionally fine-mesh conical strainer, which we had the opportunity to use for the first time today. This specialized tool is instrumental in achieving the soup’s characteristic silky-smooth texture, free of any small vegetable fibers. While incredibly effective, these professional-grade strainers are known to be quite an investment, highlighting the commitment to quality in high-end kitchens.
The Distinctive Julienne Darblay Garnish and the Étuvée Method
To complement the creamy potage, we prepared the distinctive julienne darblay garnish using a specialized cooking method called ETUVEE, which literally translates to “to smother.” After meticulously julienning carrots, celery, and leeks into slender matchsticks, these vegetables are placed in a small saucepan. A minimal amount of stock and butter is added, and the saucepan is then set over a very low heat. The vegetables are then covered with a CARTOUCHE, a perfectly cut piece of parchment paper designed to fit the pan’s diameter and pressed directly against the vegetables.
This “smothering” technique allows the vegetables to cook very slowly and gently, steaming in their own juices and the added liquid. The cartouche creates a sealed environment, preventing moisture from escaping and ensuring the vegetables become incredibly tender without caramelizing, browning, or losing their vibrant color. This method is a testament to the subtle precision required in French culinary arts, where even a garnish is treated with such meticulous care.
New Food Fact of the Day: Garnish vs. Décor
Today’s lesson provided a crucial distinction often misunderstood in home kitchens: the difference between a garnish and décor. As I initially believed, a garnish isn’t merely something added on top for visual appeal. A garnish is an integral component of a dish, purposefully added to enhance its flavor, texture, or even aroma, though it’s not strictly part of the main cooking process of the dish itself. In the case of our Potage Julienne Darblay, the finely julienned, étuvée vegetables were a perfect example of a garnish – essential for the dish’s complete character.
Conversely, décor refers to something used solely for aesthetic purposes, to decorate or embellish a plate or dish at the final presentation stage. This distinction is vital in professional cooking, emphasizing that every element on a plate should serve a purpose beyond just visual appeal. This subtle but significant difference was definitely a revelation for me!
A Kitchen Mishap: The Vanished Garnish
Then came the unfortunate turn of events for the day. My partner and I had meticulously prepared our saucepan of julienned vegetables, cooked perfectly using the étuvée method, and set aside off the heat, ready for plating. However, when we returned to plate our soup approximately 30-45 minutes later, a disheartening discovery awaited us: our perfectly tender vegetables had been reduced to a charred crisp, essentially evaporated and dried out! It was an absolute disaster, and with no time left to prepare a fresh batch.
Upon investigation, it became clear what had happened. In the bustling, shared kitchen environment, another group of students had inadvertently mistaken our burner knob for their own and reactivated our stove. With so many of us new to these dynamics, sharing burners and communal cooking spaces, I anticipate such incidents might recur. But that didn’t lessen the sting of losing our garnish. The direct consequence was that our finished soup lacked its intended textural and visual accent, which is why the accompanying photograph appears somewhat bland. A tough but valuable lesson in kitchen vigilance – from now on, I will be hyper-aware of all my pots and their respective burner settings!
Elevating Flavors: Celery Root and Apple Salad with Homemade Remoulade
In addition to our elaborate soup, we prepared a vibrant and refreshing salad featuring julienned celery root and crisp apple, generously tossed in a homemade remoulade. Today’s lesson clarified that remoulade is a small, derivative sauce of mayonnaise, which meant we had the welcome opportunity to create homemade mayonnaise once again! For this specific remoulade, we incorporated a blend of finely minced capers, anchovy, cornichon pickles, fresh parsley, and chervil. Each ingredient contributed a layer of piquant, savory, and herbaceous notes, transforming a simple mayonnaise into a complex and flavorful dressing.
The dressed salad was then elegantly served on a bed of fresh arugula, providing a peppery counterpoint to the creamy dressing and crisp vegetables. The overall dish was intriguing and offered a unique combination of textures and tastes. While it was undoubtedly interesting and tasty to prepare and sample, I confess it might not be a dish I’d rush to recreate at home, largely due to its specific flavor profile, which, though complex, wasn’t quite to my everyday preference.
A Sweet Finish: Citrus Salad with Zest Confit
For our light dessert, we crafted a beautiful citrus salad adorned with homemade zest confit, which is essentially candied orange zest. Our morning lecture shed light on the term “confit,” which fundamentally means “to cook.” This culinary process typically involves one of two mediums: sugar or fat. For instance, the renowned duck confit exemplifies a meat cooked and preserved in its own fat. Understanding this distinction provides crucial insight into the versatility and historical significance of the confit method in classic cooking.
Crafting the Perfect Zest Confit
Zest confit, in contrast to meat confit, involves cooking the zest and peel of a citrus fruit in sugar, specifically a simple syrup in this instance. The process begins with carefully peeling our oranges, ensuring only the vibrant outer zest and a minimal amount of pith are removed. This peel is then very finely julienned. The julienned peel undergoes a critical blanching process. At our culinary school, “blanching” is precisely defined as ‘cleaning’ or removing impurities by submerging an item in boiling water, distinct from ‘parboiling,’ which many commonly associate with the term.
This blanching step is repeated three times, each time starting with fresh cold water and bringing it to a rolling boil. This repetitive process is extremely important because it effectively extracts the natural bitter oils from the orange peel, rendering it palatable and sweet. Finally, the blanched peel is gently simmered in a simple syrup (an equal-parts mixture of sugar and water) until it becomes soft, translucent, and loses any trace of gumminess. The result is a delightfully aromatic and tender candied orange peel.
Preparing the Oranges and Plating the Dessert
The remaining orange fruit, after being stripped of its zest, was meticulously prepared using the “peler a vif” technique – a French term meaning “to peel raw.” This involves carefully cutting away all the outer pith and membrane, exposing only the pristine orange segments. Today, instead of segmenting, we opted to slice the peeled oranges into elegant coins. Meanwhile, half of our freshly made zest confit was kept submerged in its simple syrup, while the other half was removed, allowed to dry slightly, and then lightly tossed in granulated sugar, transforming it into irresistible candied orange peel!
For plating, the vibrant orange slices were artfully arranged and topped with a sprinkle of both the syrupy zest and a few strands of the glistening sugared zest. A scattering of finely chopped pistachios added a touch of color and crunch. To complete this elegant dessert, we also included a small slice of the genoise cake, a light sponge cake we learned to make yesterday. To enhance its moisture and flavor, a delicate spoonful of simple syrup was drizzled over the cake. Despite its conceptual simplicity, the combination of flavors and textures in these oranges proved to be utterly delicious and refreshing.
Afternoon Session: Mastering Whole Chicken Butchery
Following a thorough clean-up session – during which I, somewhat fatefully, found myself tasked with scrubbing the colossal stockpot again – our afternoon shifted to an eagerly anticipated demo: a comprehensive lesson on breaking down whole chickens. This was a particularly exciting prospect for me, as I’ve always had very limited knowledge of meat butchery. Witnessing Chef Brian expertly dismantle a chicken, articulating each cut and muscle group, was incredibly enlightening. Afterwards, armed with our boning knives, each of us received our own chicken to practice this essential skill.
I found some aspects of the process surprisingly intuitive, while other parts proved quite tricky, especially the precise removal of the chicken breasts and the delicate ‘oysters’ (the small, tender pieces of dark meat nestled in the back of the carcass) as cleanly as possible. Despite the initial challenge, I’m genuinely excited to have acquired this practical skill, which I can now confidently apply in my home kitchen. Weekend practice is definitely on the agenda!
An Unexpected Evening: Bethesda Magazine Recipe Photo Shoot
Although our class officially concluded at 2:30 PM, I had enthusiastically volunteered yesterday to stay until 5:30 PM to assist our chef instructor with a recipe photoshoot for Bethesda Magazine! This opportunity was particularly appealing given my interest in both culinary arts and visual presentation. The feature recipe for the shoot was a hearty and flavorful duck, andouille, and shrimp gumbo. My role involved extensive prep work – chopping numerous vegetables, ensuring all ingredients were meticulously prepared for mise en place – and assisting the chef throughout the cooking process. Afterwards, I helped with the thorough cleanup.
This extended session was invaluable. Not only did I gain extra practice refining my knife skills, but I also had a front-row seat to observe the meticulous, step-by-step process of photographing a recipe for publication. Even better, I was given the ultimate privilege: being a taste tester at the end! The gumbo was incredibly delicious – rich, spicy, and deeply satisfying. I truly wished I could have brought it all home with me. Fortunately, I managed to snag the recipe, so a future recreation is definitely on the cards once I gather all the necessary spices!
As an added bonus, I also savored a small slice of a stunning lemon meringue tart (pictured above) crafted by the talented pastry students. It was an exquisite balance of intensely tart lemon curd topped with a soft, marshmallow-like meringue. This delightful encounter has me even more excited, as apparently, we will be learning to make this very tart in the near future – a sweet prospect indeed!
Looking Ahead: Sanitation Days and Food Manager Certification
A small reprieve awaits tomorrow morning, as I get to enjoy an extra 30 minutes of sleep. The next two days, marking the culmination of Week 2, are dedicated entirely to sanitation training. During this crucial period, we will immerse ourselves in learning all the essential sanitation rules and regulations required to eventually obtain our food manager certification. This means we won’t need to arrive early to help with kitchen prep, allowing for a slight, albeit temporary, break from the intense cooking schedule.
Apparently, these upcoming sessions will be filled with an array of “disgusting stories” – cautionary tales and real-world examples that underscore the critical importance of proper hygiene and food safety in any culinary environment. I’ll be back soon with all the intriguing (and perhaps a little unsettling) details of what promises to be a highly informative few days. The learning never stops in culinary school, whether it’s mastering a classic sauce or understanding the science of keeping a kitchen safe.