From Sorrento to Positano: Discovering the Enchanting Cliffside Jewel of the Amalfi Coast

After four memorable nights soaking in the charm of Sorrento, the crisp Wednesday morning air beckoned us towards our next breathtaking destination: Positano. With bags packed and spirits high, we checked out of our hotel, collected our rental car, and set our sights on the iconic Amalfi Coast drive.

Navigating unfamiliar Italian roads always comes with its little adventures. Despite the apparent simplicity of a single coastal highway, we managed a brief detour before finding our rhythm. Soon, the winding roads began to unveil the first tantalizing glimpses of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the rugged coastline that makes this region so famous.

The journey itself was an experience. The roads were undeniably steep and relentlessly winding, hugging the dramatic cliffs with an exhilarating precision. Yet, fate was on our side. It was a perfectly clear day, and to our delight, we encountered virtually no traffic – a rare luxury on the popular Amalfi Coast, and even better, no cumbersome tour buses to slow our progress. This allowed us to fully appreciate the stunning vistas unfolding around every bend.

Arrival in Positano: A Warm Welcome at Villa Franca

Approximately 45 minutes later, the unmistakable silhouette of Positano emerged, a cascade of pastel-hued buildings clinging impossibly to the steep cliffs. Our anticipation soared as we caught the first glimpses of our charming boutique hotel, Villa Franca. Perched majestically at the very apex of town, its location promised, and certainly delivered, some of the most spectacular panoramic views Positano has to offer.

From the main Amalfi Coast highway, a single, one-way road meanders through Positano. This might seem restrictive, but it’s actually a blessing, given the town’s incredibly narrow and winding streets. Parking, as expected, is a premium commodity here. Fortunately, Villa Franca offered convenient (paid) parking in a lot just a few hundred feet from the hotel. We happily left our car there for the duration of our stay, only retrieving it for a single dinner excursion further down the coast.

Our Italian adventure, as I’d mentioned previously, was made possible by a Groupon deal that conveniently bundled flights, car rental, and hotel accommodations. A minor hiccup had occurred in Sorrento when our original hotel was overbooked, leading to a last-minute rebooking at another establishment. While perfectly adequate and comfortable (we spent little time there anyway), it wasn’t particularly memorable. That experience, however, made me a little apprehensive about our Positano booking. My excitement for Villa Franca was palpable, as it promised a truly unique and boutique experience, a stark contrast to the standard chain hotels. Thankfully, our booking at Hotel Villa Franca was seamless, and the reality of the hotel far exceeded our already high expectations!

Our reservation included two nights in a standard room, vaguely described as having a “partial view.” Curious about what this might entail, we entered our room, and the answer was immediately and gloriously clear. Our “partial view” was, in fact, an utterly breathtaking panorama of Positano’s cascading buildings, the azure sea, and the endless horizon. “Yeah, I’ll take it!” was a vast understatement.

Once we had settled in, marveling at the view, luxuriating in the soft bathrobes, and appreciating the complimentary slippers, we decided to explore the hotel’s lobby and other communal areas. The hotel exuded an elegant, yet inviting, atmosphere.

We discovered a truly gorgeous restaurant dining room, though it was still a few weeks shy of its official opening for the season. Nonetheless, Connor and I found ourselves drawn to its serene ambiance, spending some time there that afternoon simply reading. We imagined how incredible it must be in the summer months when all the windows and even the ceiling open up, blurring the lines between indoor elegance and the stunning outdoor scenery.

Exploring Positano’s Vertical Maze: The Charm of the Stairwells

With the hotel fully appreciated, we were eager to delve into Positano itself. This town is truly extraordinary, built almost entirely along the steep cliffs that flank a small coastal inlet. Beyond the single main winding road, the only way to truly explore Positano is by navigating its intricate network of narrow stairwells. These ancient stone paths twist and turn, revealing new snippets of incredible views with every ascent and descent.

Just when you think you’ve reached the bottom, or, more dauntingly, the top on the way back to our hotel, more stairs magically appear, stretching onwards. It felt like an endless, yet beautiful, labyrinth. I honestly don’t think I’ve climbed so many stairs in my entire life! Our hotel concierge put it best when she showed us the tiny hotel gym: “We don’t really use the gym here…” And after a day of exploring, we understood why!

Eventually, the majestic dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta came into full view, a clear sign that we were nearing the heart of town and the beautiful beach below.

Positano’s Beach and Vibrant Colors

On our descent, we stumbled upon a local cat hang-out, strategically located right next door to a fish shop. It was a charming scene; we tried to count all of them, but I’m not even sure if we spotted every single one!

A few more flights of stairs later, we emerged onto the main promenade and the tranquil beach. In the peak summer months, this stretch of sand would be teeming with sunbathers and vibrant beach chairs, but for us, it was a quiet, peaceful haven, offering a serene escape.

If you look closely at the photo below, at the very tip-top of the highest cliff, you’ll spot a small white building – that’s our hotel! This perspective truly gives you an appreciation for the sheer number of stairs we navigated during our stay in Positano.

One of the most captivating aspects of Positano is its incredible palette of colors. Almost every building and house is painted a distinct shade of yellow, pink, red, or orange, creating a vibrant, almost painted, landscape. Our guidebooks suggested that these varied hues might have once served as a practical guide for fishermen, helping them distinguish their homes from out at sea – a charming detail that adds to the town’s unique character.

Positano is consistently ranked among the most beautiful towns not only on the Amalfi Coast but in the entire world, and I wholeheartedly agree. There is simply nowhere else quite like it. Staring up at the seemingly impossible cliff-hugging buildings, it’s hard to fathom the sheer ingenuity and effort that went into constructing this remarkable town.

It’s fascinating to realize that Positano, once a humble fishing village, only gained widespread renown among travelers in the 1950s. A pivotal moment was a famous essay by John Steinbeck, published in the May 1953 issue of Harper’s Bizarre. He famously captured the town’s essence with this now-iconic quote:

“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”

His words resonated deeply with us, perfectly encapsulating the almost surreal beauty of the place. We spent some time walking along the quiet beach, even dipping our hands into the surprisingly mild water. We then ventured out onto some rocks on the far side of the beach, finding a secluded spot to simply relax and soak in the incredible views.

The Great Cappuccino Quest and a Well-Deserved Lunch

After our beachside relaxation, the familiar craving for an Italian cappuccino struck. Rather than settling for an overpriced option right on the beach, we decided to embark on a quest to find a more authentic, and hopefully scenic, cafe. This proved to be a surprisingly challenging task. Many establishments were still closed for the season, and finding an open cafe with a good view required a bit of persistence as we explored more of Positano’s charming, vine-draped alleys.

Finally, after ascending a different set of stairs on the other side of town, we discovered a truly perfect spot. It was excellent cappuccino real estate, offering stunning views and a delightful break from our explorations.

Our cappuccino break was followed by more walking, building up an appetite before heading back to the hotel. We needed a recommendation for a good, casual lunch spot nearby. As we began the arduous climb back up the countless stairs towards Villa Franca, even just ten feet from the bottom, Connor’s expression perfectly captured the challenge ahead. Can you tell how “excited” he was?

Once we finally reached the summit, our hamstrings were protesting, and we were absolutely starving. The hotel staff kindly directed us to a cluster of casual lunch spots a few hundred meters down the road, offering a welcome respite and delicious food.

For lunch, we decided to share a classic Italian pizza – no surprise there! – alongside a wonderful array of vegetable antipasti. This included beautifully grilled pumpkin, fragrant with fresh mint, a drizzle of olive oil, and a touch of vinegar. It was a delightful combination of sweet and savory.

We also savored perfectly simple grilled eggplant, my personal favorite, dressed with fragrant olive oil and garlic. And, for a delightful twist, some fried zucchini. Unlike many versions I’d tried before, this one was fried completely plain, without any flour coating, allowing the natural sweetness of the zucchini to shine through. Every dish was utterly delicious, a perfect refueling stop after our strenuous morning.

An Afternoon in Positano: Leisure and Local Flavors

The remainder of our afternoon was dedicated to a more relaxed exploration of the area around our hotel. We spent some time reading, unwinding at Villa Franca, and enjoying another afternoon cappuccino at Bar Internazionale, a local favorite. This became our go-to spot for writing postcards to friends and family, enjoying the bustling atmosphere and the authentic local vibe.

It was at Bar Internazionale that we made a momentous discovery: the cheapest cappuccinos of our entire trip, a mere 1.50 euros! Naturally, we capitalized on this find for the rest of our time in Positano. Reading back through our adventures, it might sound like our trip was primarily a cycle of eating and drinking cappuccinos, but I assure you, all of these delightful activities unfolded over a very busy nine-hour period of exploration and enjoyment. Not that the alternative sounds bad to me, of course!

Positano, with its unparalleled beauty, challenging stairways, and captivating charm, truly left an indelible mark on us. Its vibrant colors, breathtaking views, and the warm hospitality of its people created an experience that perfectly embodied John Steinbeck’s famous words. This cliffside jewel of the Amalfi Coast is more than just a destination; it’s a dream that lingers long after you’ve left its enchanting embrace. We can’t wait to share more about our Italian adventure!