Botswana’s Untamed Beauty & Victoria Falls Majesty: Our Unforgettable Honeymoon Safari Continues

Welcome back to the continuation of our incredible honeymoon journey through Southern Africa! If you’ve been following along, you’ll know our adventure began with thrilling, and at times intense, wildlife encounters in the Okavango Delta. Catch up on the full story with part one, part two, and part three of our Botswana safari recap.

I bring both good news and a small caveat. The good news first: thankfully, we encountered no further aggressive animal incidents throughout the remainder of our trip. Phew! We can all collectively exhale. The caveat, however, is that despite my best efforts, compressing the remaining eight days of our unforgettable journey into a single post proved impossible. So, I humbly ask for your patience just a little longer. One more installment, I promise, and then we can dive into other exciting topics like our wedding, life in Chicago, and, of course, delicious food – though not necessarily in that order! Sound good?

Navigating the Aftermath: A Changed Safari Perspective

As you might imagine, our honeymoon experience took a significant turn after the memorable elephant charge and near vehicle-flipping incident. While I’d love to claim I brushed it off instantly and was “hunky dory” thereafter, that wouldn’t be entirely truthful. Our subsequent days were undeniably amazing, filled with incredible sights and experiences, but the incident profoundly impacted our perception and approach to the rest of our time in Botswana.

The manager of our first camp had forewarned us about the high elephant population in the area surrounding our next destination, near Chobe National Park. It wasn’t that I genuinely believed the same terrifying event would recur. The elephant that charged us likely felt we were infringing upon its personal space or was simply acting instinctively to protect its herd, possibly including calves. The exact motive remains a mystery. Elephants possess remarkable memories, and as one of our guides explained, Botswana shares a border with Namibia, a country unfortunately plagued by high rates of elephant poaching. Poachers often cross into Botswana, which boasts one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. Regardless, my admiration for these magnificent creatures remains. Elephants were, in fact, one of the animals I was most eager to see during our safari. My love for them is unwavering; I just didn’t particularly fancy being in quite such close, personal proximity to them at that specific moment.

Lilac-Breasted Roller – a vibrant splash of color in the bush!

A Calmer Interlude: Exploring the Okavango Delta by Boat

In the immediate aftermath, we briefly considered altering our meticulously planned itinerary, perhaps diverting to a different region. However, after more than a year of anticipation and careful planning, we ultimately decided to push through and experience every facet of our dream trip. With hindsight, this might not have been the most “wise” decision for my nerves, but we pressed on. The following morning, since our flight was scheduled for the afternoon, we opted to skip the traditional morning game drive. Instead, we embarked on a wonderfully relaxing boat ride within the enchanting Okavango Delta.

While this river excursion offered fewer sightings of large mammals, it proved to be a welcome and much-needed change of pace. We were captivated by an array of different bird species, unique water plants, and a fresh perspective on the Delta’s breathtaking landscape. This serene journey allowed us to appreciate Botswana’s natural beauty in a more tranquil setting, providing a therapeutic balm after our recent intense encounter.

The fascinating “Jesus Bird” (Jacana), which appears to walk on water as it gracefully steps across lily pads.

The birds of Botswana were an unexpected delight – so vibrant and diverse! Many of them were quite comfortable around our first camp, often scavenging for crumbs, which allowed me to capture some stunning photographs. Their bright plumage and charming antics were truly one of the unexpected highlights of our safari adventure.

A striking Yellow Weaver, a common sight in Botswana.

The distinctive Black-Collared Barbet, another beautiful avian resident.

Into the Heart of Chobe: A Test of Nerves

Our Safari Air flight departed from our Delta camp that afternoon, just after three o’clock. Believe it or not, I had grown accustomed to these small, six-seater planes by this point! We landed at the airstrip near our second camp in less than an hour. This camp was situated closer to Chobe National Park, and like our first, it felt wonderfully isolated. A friendly guide met us, and we began the hour-long drive to camp, which itself felt like a fast-paced game drive through the rugged landscape.

From this point onward, we jokingly referred to ourselves as the ‘damaged Safari people.’ We made sure to share our elephant encounter story with every new guide, not out of complaint, but to gently explain our preference for maintaining a respectful distance from elephants. To their credit, all the guides were incredibly understanding, gracious, and genuinely shocked by our tale!

Just five to ten minutes into our drive, it became clear that this area was characterized by dense vegetation and limited visibility. While not inherently a problem for wildlife, it meant we could rarely see more than 15-20 feet ahead. This translated to the possibility of rounding a corner and finding ourselves just mere feet away from any animal, including elephants. The ground was incredibly sandy, hemmed in by small trees and brush, making for slow progress, often no more than a few miles per hour. Within 30 minutes, we had already spotted over 20 elephants, none more than 50 feet away. At this point, I confess, I became a nervous wreck. My legs shook uncontrollably, and every muscle in my body tensed as every worst-case scenario flashed through my mind.

Our guide spotted this unique “Heart Tree” and insisted I capture a photo!

During one particularly tense moment, we rounded a bend to see three or four elephants standing squarely in the middle of the road, about 75 feet ahead. They were positioned just before another turn, obscuring our view beyond them. The sun was beginning to set, we were still 20 minutes from camp, and the thought of navigating such terrain in the dark was terrifying. Even daylight driving was a challenge for my heightened anxiety. Yet, driving directly into a massive herd of elephants was equally unappealing.

As the elephants slowly began to move off the road, our guide – who had undoubtedly noticed my complete terror – turned to me and said, “Laura, I want you to do something. I want you to turn your head and look the other way.” As Connor later reminded me, I was instructed to focus on several cape buffalo to my immediate right. Not exactly the confidence boost I was hoping for, but I complied!

A herd of Cape Buffalo, a powerful presence in the African bush.

Thankfully, there were no elephants around the next bend. We continued our journey, spotting a few more elephants at a safer distance, and finally, gratefully, arrived at our camp. We familiarized ourselves with our new surroundings – unlike the previous camp, this one lacked an electric fence – and our tented room. We arrived just in time to enjoy the spectacular sunset over the river directly in front of the camp, accompanied by the distant grunting of hippos, a true soundtrack of the wild, before heading to dinner.

Morning Game Drives and Wild Nights

The next morning, we reluctantly rose at half past six for breakfast served outdoors by the fire. After the previous day’s nerve-wracking drive, I had absolutely no desire to go on another game drive. Connor was supportive of my decision, but our guide, ever the persuader (and we, clearly, were easily swayed), assured us there would be fewer elephants active in the morning. Since we were the only guests in the safari vehicle, he also offered the comforting option to turn back at any point if we felt uncomfortable. We agreed.

Our morning game drive proved much more peaceful. We spotted elegant giraffes, numerous playful baboons, our very first mongoose family scurrying about, and an abundance of fascinating birds, including the tiniest of owls, the African Barred Owlet. This gentle introduction to the day’s wildlife helped soothe my jangled nerves.

A charming African Mongoose, often seen in family groups.

The miniature but captivating African Barred Owlet.

We also had the unique opportunity to witness traditional mokoro fishing – using boats carved from tree trunks – along the riverbanks. Elephant sightings were almost non-existent during this morning excursion, and I began to feel a significant improvement in my comfort level within the jeep. Despite this positive turn, we decided to dedicate the afternoon to relaxing and simply enjoying the tranquility of the camp. We indulged in a nap, waking to the playful antics of several baboons just outside our raised tent.

That night, I experienced my first truly restless sleep of the trip. As we settled into bed, we could clearly hear several hippos grazing just outside our tent. At one point during the night, I vividly remember waking to the distinct, powerful roar of a lion in the not-too-distant bush. We later learned that the lion had, in fact, walked directly through the camp that night, its fresh footprints clearly visible to the guides in the morning. Oh, and I’m quite certain there was an elephant nearby at some point as well. Suffice to say, I’m surprised I managed to get any sleep at all with such a symphony of the wild around us!

From Riverbanks to Aerial Views: A Surprise Helicopter Ride

The following morning, our second full day at this camp, we again opted for a boat ride. This expedition yielded even more bird sightings, and we could clearly see where the papyrus and water reeds had been flattened by the passage of grazing elephants and hippos. My comfort level had significantly improved by this point, but I still remained wary of afternoon game drives. Elephants are prone to venturing down to the river to cool off in the afternoons, which meant a high probability of encountering many of them up close.

We both felt a pang of guilt for not fully maximizing every game drive opportunity at this second camp. However, we also prioritized our peace of mind. For me, game drives still triggered a heightened sense of alert, a constant vigilance for any potential sign of danger, which was far from a relaxing or enjoyable feeling. As we were preparing to unwind and enjoy some afternoon lounging, one of the camp staff members approached us with an incredible surprise: they had arranged a 30-minute scenic helicopter ride for just the two of us! We were completely caught off guard. To this day, we’re not entirely sure if it was a special honeymoon gesture, or if they felt a sense of concern after our elephant encounter and simply wanted to do something exceptionally kind. Either way, it was incredibly exciting and deeply appreciated. The hospitality at both of our Botswana camps was truly unparalleled; I’ve never felt so genuinely welcomed and cared for anywhere else I’ve traveled.

We drove about 10 minutes from camp to a slightly open area, where a remarkably tiny helicopter awaited us. Our pilot, a friendly New Zealander, asked if we wished to remove all the doors for maximum viewing. Connor immediately nodded his enthusiastic approval! I was a tad more hesitant, but quickly got on board with the idea. Our guide, Esse, joined us for the ride, and we were off! It was both Connor’s and my very first helicopter experience. For the initial 10 minutes or so, I clung to the bar in front of me for dear life, too nervous even to pull out my camera. A part of me worried we had merely swapped one potentially dangerous activity (a game drive) for another equally daring one (a door-less helicopter ride). But as we leveled off and I began to feel more comfortable, it became an absolute blast!

Moreover, the aerial perspective offered unparalleled wildlife viewing. I was more than happy to observe elephants – all the elephants! – from between one and two hundred feet up. Bring on the elephants from this height! Even more special, we witnessed several hippos out of the water and numerous elephants cooling off and swimming in the river below. It was a truly magnificent and unique way to appreciate Chobe’s incredible wildlife from a safe and breathtaking vantage point.

A Final, Thrilling Encounter: The Leopard

After the exhilarating helicopter ride, we returned to camp, looking forward to relaxing and enjoying the afternoon tea and snacks that all the camps so generously offered. About five minutes later, Esse approached us, saying, “One of the safari vehicles just spotted a leopard emerging from the water. It’s only a five-minute drive away! Do you want to go see it?”

Neither of us could possibly pass up the chance to see another leopard, especially after our previous brief glimpse in the Okavango Delta. We quickly hopped into the safari vehicle and headed in the direction of the other vehicles. We arrived just in time to witness the leopard gracefully walking away from the water. It passed within a mere five feet of our vehicle (a moment that definitely made my heart race!) before disappearing into the dense brush. It was a magnificent male, noticeably larger and more muscular than the leopard we had seen earlier in our trip. This incredible sighting was the absolute perfect way to conclude our time at this exceptional camp.

While we were genuinely sad to bid farewell to the wonderful staff, we were both eagerly anticipating our next destination: Victoria Falls. The thought of a brief hiatus from game drives was also a welcome prospect after the emotional rollercoaster of the past few days.

Our excellent guide, Esse, and myself, cherishing the memories.

Transitioning to Majesty: Victoria Falls Awaits

The next morning, we woke early, preparing for a long day of travel. Our guide, Esse, drove us on the hour-long journey back to the airstrip. From there, we boarded another hour-long Safari Air flight to Kasane Airport in Botswana. At Kasane, we met our transfer vehicle, which would drive us across the Zimbabwe border to reach Victoria Falls. It felt incredibly strange, yet strangely comforting, to be on a paved landing strip, let alone driving on paved roads after weeks of navigating dirt tracks and sandy bush paths in Botswana.

After a smooth customs process and purchasing our Zimbabwe-Zambia visa (Victoria Falls straddles the border of both countries, and we planned to explore both sides over the next two days), we embarked on a 45-minute drive to the iconic Victoria Falls Hotel. This Edwardian-era hotel is absolutely magnificent, constructed in the early 1900s to accommodate the workers building the Victoria Falls Bridge. It exuded a rich, colonial charm, and the distant views of the billowing “smoke” of Victoria Falls – famously known as “The Smoke That Thunders” – were utterly breathtaking.

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Being in a structured building with reliable electricity, air-conditioning, and proper restaurants felt incredibly strange, yet wonderfully luxurious after our safari camps, especially given our recent experiences! It was a welcome change of routine. Even here, however, we were never entirely detached from the wild; several monkeys, baboons, and even warthogs roamed freely across the hotel property, ensuring we still got our daily dose of wildlife. Am I alone in finding warthogs absolutely adorable?

We savored a leisurely lunch in the outdoor dining area, enjoying distant views of the falls (Connor even tried an ostrich bolognese pasta!), before preparing for our highly anticipated sunset cruise that evening.

A Magical Sunset on the Zambezi

A short 20-minute drive took us to the departure point for our sunset cruise on the Zambezi River. Our vessel was one of many offering these popular excursions, navigating the river above Victoria Falls (though obviously maintaining a safe and respectful distance from the precipice!). The weather was absolutely perfect, and we were treated to a magnificent rainbow created by the falls’ mist – a phenomenon so common in the wet season that the spot is affectionately known as Rainbow Point. We witnessed the most spectacular sunset, a truly unforgettable spectacle.

To top it all off, we even spotted an elephant taking a drink from the riverbanks, a serene moment of wildlife observation that brought a sense of peace after our earlier safari adventures.

Exploring the Falls: From Ground Level to “Flight of the Angels”

The next morning, after a delightful breakfast at the hotel, we embarked on private walking tours of both sides of Victoria Falls – the Zimbabwe and Zambia sides. Victoria Falls holds the impressive title of the widest waterfall in the world, surpassing Niagara Falls by over 1500 feet! (The tallest waterfall, for reference, is Angel Falls at a staggering 3,212 feet.) Our travel agency had thoughtfully arranged a knowledgeable guide to show us around. Both sides offered distinct perspectives and experiences (requiring another border crossing into Zambia, though made easy by our multi-country visa). The sheer power and scale of the water were absolutely awe-inspiring, and the views from every angle were simply spectacular.

Due to past issues with elephants, the Zimbabwe side of the falls is protected by a large fence, but we still encountered plenty of baboons and vervet monkeys playfully darting around the park. Be warned: walking along the falls, you will get absolutely soaked by the mist at several points! For this reason, I wisely left my camera behind but brought our GoPro, which, with its waterproof case, was perfectly suited for the task.

That afternoon, we embarked on a 12-minute scenic helicopter ride over the falls, famously known as the “Flight of the Angels”! We had pre-booked this in advance, never imagining it would be our second helicopter experience of the trip. Unlike our Botswana ride, this helicopter was much larger, accommodating six people, and reassuringly, it had doors. It was our first time witnessing the falls from above, and this aerial perspective truly offered a comprehensive understanding of the entire magnificent area. We circled the falls four times, ensuring everyone had ample opportunity to take pictures and soak in the incredible panorama. It was the perfect duration, providing an unforgettable vantage point. If you ever have the chance to visit Victoria Falls, I wholeheartedly recommend combining walking tours of both sides with a short helicopter ride – it allows you to appreciate this natural wonder from every conceivable angle!

Concluding This Chapter: Onward to South Africa

All in all, our two days at Victoria Falls were the ideal amount of time. It provided a wonderfully refreshing break from game drives after the intensity of our elephant incident, and ironically, it reignited our excitement for the final three days of our safari adventure in South Africa! Be sure to check back soon for my ultimate post and update, which will include more pictures and even a video of our (completely optional, and perhaps slightly crazy) elephant ride! Yes, we officially embraced our inner adventurers.