Day 40: Cauliflower Soup, Grilled Salmon and Madeleines

A Culinary Journey: Mastering Classic French Dishes from Soup to Salmon and Madeleines

Stepping into the professional kitchen each day brings a unique blend of challenge and excitement, a feeling that only intensifies as we delve deeper into the art of classic French cuisine. While my notes for this particular day might be concise, the flavors and techniques we explored were anything but. Though I may not have captured every moment with a perfect photo, I hope my descriptions can transport you to the heart of our culinary classroom, where we transformed simple ingredients into exquisite dishes.

An Elegant Start: Creamy Cauliflower Soup

Our culinary adventure began with an appetizer that perfectly embodies French elegance: Cauliflower Soup. Far from a simple purée, this soup was a masterful blend of flavor and texture, proving that true sophistication often lies in simplicity. The base was built upon a sauté of tender leeks, gently softened to release their sweet, delicate aromas, which then married beautifully with fresh cauliflower florets.

Rich and creamy cauliflower soup, garnished with fresh herbs, in a white bowl

To achieve its signature creamy consistency and body, we incorporated a small amount of potato scraps – a clever culinary trick to add natural starch and richness without relying solely on heavy cream. A subtle pinch of curry powder was introduced, not to dominate, but to add an unexpected layer of warmth and complexity, elevating the cauliflower’s earthy notes. The entire concoction was then simmered gently in rich chicken stock, allowing the flavors to meld and deepen. Finally, a finishing touch of cream was stirred in, lending a luxurious mouthfeel and velvety finish.

The result was a remarkably flavorful soup, rich and comforting, yet surprisingly light. It was a testament to how carefully selected ingredients and precise execution can create a dish that is both profound and utterly satisfying. While the kitchen’s increasing warmth made a hot soup a slightly ironic choice, its exquisite taste was undeniably a welcome start to our meal.

The Main Event: Grilled Salmon with Classic Accompaniments

For our main course, we focused on perfect execution with Grilled Salmon, paired with a trio of classic French accompaniments: the vibrant Sauce Choron, crisp broccoli, and perfectly prepared Pommes Rissolees. Grilling salmon to perfection requires a keen eye and precise timing, ensuring a crispy skin and a flaky, moist interior. The aim is to achieve those beautiful, even grill marks that speak of culinary skill.

Perfectly grilled salmon fillet with distinct grill marks, served with a side of sauce

While the accompanying photo might be a little blurry, it offers a glimpse into the precision we strive for – those distinct grill marks are not just for aesthetics; they indicate a well-seared surface that locks in flavor and moisture. This meticulous approach to cooking highlights the importance of both technique and visual appeal in professional cooking.

Exploring Sauce Choron: A Hollandaise Masterpiece

The star companion to our grilled salmon was Sauce Choron, a truly classic and sophisticated sauce that elegantly showcases the versatility of French mother sauces. Sauce Choron is a direct derivative of the esteemed Hollandaise, a rich, emulsified sauce made primarily from egg yolks, clarified butter, and lemon juice. Our curriculum emphasizes understanding these foundational sauces, and we had previously explored another Hollandaise variant, Béarnaise, which we magnificently paired with roast beef.

What distinguishes Choron from its cousins? Like Béarnaise, it begins with a flavor-packed tarragon reduction. This reduction is carefully crafted by gently simmering finely minced shallots, vibrant red wine vinegar, and crushed black peppercorns, allowing their essences to infuse the liquid. Fresh or dried tarragon is then added, contributing its distinctive anise-like aroma and flavor. The mixture is slowly reduced, concentrating these aromatic notes into a potent elixir that forms the soul of the sauce.

However, Sauce Choron takes an additional, crucial step: the incorporation of tomato concasse. We had prepared concasse before, notably serving it with scrambled eggs, and it’s a testament to its clean, pure flavor. Tomato concasse involves blanching fresh tomatoes, carefully peeling off their skins, removing the seeds, and then dicing the flesh into small, uniform pieces. Critically, authentic concasse typically contains no additional aromatics like garlic or herbs, ensuring that the natural sweetness and acidity of the tomato shine through without distraction. When this fresh, chunky tomato element is folded into the tarragon-infused Hollandaise, Sauce Choron is born, offering a beautiful pale orange hue and a bright, herbaceous, and subtly tangy flavor profile that complements grilled fish, particularly salmon, with unparalleled finesse.

The Art of Pommes Rissolees: Elegant Roasted Potatoes

To complete the main course, we prepared Pommes Rissolees, a classic potato dish that elevates a simple vegetable into an art form. The key to these exquisite potatoes lies in the “tourner” technique. This involves carefully shaping potatoes into small, elegant, barrel-like or seven-sided ovals. While visually appealing, this technique also ensures even cooking and a consistent texture.

Once tourneed, the potatoes are brought just to a boil, a process known as par-boiling. This pre-cooks them slightly, shortening the final cooking time and ensuring they are tender inside. After boiling, it is absolutely crucial to drain them thoroughly and dry them completely. Any residual moisture would prevent them from achieving that coveted crispy exterior. Finally, these meticulously prepared potatoes are sautéed in clarified butter until they are beautifully golden brown on all sides. Clarified butter, with its higher smoke point, is ideal for this, allowing the potatoes to achieve a rich color and crispness without burning. The result is a potato that is irresistibly crispy on the outside and wonderfully fluffy on the inside – a perfect complement to our grilled salmon and Sauce Choron.

A Sweet Finish: Delicate Lemon Glazed Madeleines

For dessert, we turned our attention to a French classic that evokes a sense of nostalgia and simple pleasure: Madeleines. These small, shell-shaped sponge cakes are renowned for their delicate texture and distinctive “hump” on one side, a tell-tale sign of a perfectly baked madeleine. While seemingly simple, achieving that iconic shape requires attention to a crucial detail: the dough must be thoroughly chilled before baking.

This chilling process, often for several hours or even overnight, is vital. When the cold dough hits the hot madeleine pan, the rapid expansion of the steam creates that characteristic hump, ensuring the proper form and a light, airy texture. The recipe itself is wonderfully straightforward and memorable, making it a favorite for home bakers and professionals alike:

  • 4 ounces (approx. 113g) granulated sugar
  • 4 ounces (approx. 113g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
  • 2 large eggs
  • 4 ounces (approx. 113g) all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder

To this classic base, we added a vibrant touch of lemon zest for a refreshing aroma and flavor, along with a hint of vanilla extract to round out the sweetness. Once baked to a golden perfection, our madeleines were coated in a simple yet bright lemon glaze, adding a tangy counterpoint to the buttery cake. As you can see from the image, they were so popular that several disappeared from the plate almost immediately – the ultimate compliment for any dessert!

Beyond Lunch: The Beginnings of Consommé

After serving a delicious lunch, our work in the kitchen was far from over. We immediately transitioned to preparing for future lessons, a continuous cycle in culinary school. This included trimming more chickens, not only for their valuable meat but also to create richer, more flavorful stocks – the very foundation of classic French cooking.

However, the most significant undertaking was commencing the elaborate process of making Consommé. This isn’t just any broth; consommé is the epitome of clear, highly fortified broths, a truly complex and revered staple of haute cuisine. Its preparation involves an exacting process of clarification, where a “raft” of finely ground meat, egg whites, and finely diced aromatic vegetables (mirepoix) is slowly brought to a simmer atop a rich stock. As the raft slowly cooks, it traps impurities, rising to the surface and creating a natural filter. The resulting liquid, meticulously strained, is a pristine, intensely flavored, and crystal-clear broth.

This painstaking process highlights the dedication and precision required in classical French culinary arts. We actually served this consommé today, a testament to the forward-planning and multi-day nature of many professional kitchen tasks. I look forward to sharing a more in-depth exploration of this fascinating technique in a dedicated post very soon, as it truly deserves its own spotlight.

Looking Ahead: New Challenges and Opportunities

As this demanding but incredibly rewarding day concludes, my thoughts are already on the horizon. Tomorrow brings its own set of challenges, including my third paper submission, a significant academic milestone. Even more exciting, I have my first meeting to discuss my externship during Phase III of the program! This is a pivotal step, offering a real-world glimpse into the professional culinary environment and an opportunity to apply the skills and knowledge gained in the kitchen classroom. It’s a thrilling prospect that promises to be both challenging and immensely interesting.

Until next time, I’ll continue soaking up every lesson and savoring every flavor on this incredible culinary journey!