The Ultimate Provence Travel Guide: Exploring the Enchanting Luberon Valley

Welcome to our comprehensive Provence, France travel guide, with a special focus on the breathtaking Luberon region. This guide is crafted to help you discover must-visit destinations, find the perfect place to stay, and savor the incredible local cuisine. From ancient hilltop villages to vibrant markets and stunning landscapes, Provence offers an unforgettable escape.

It’s taken a little longer than planned to share this Provence travel guide with you, but as they say, better late than never! Or, as the French eloquently put it, c’est la vie! My partner, Connor, and I embarked on a memorable French vacation last May, dedicating the first five days to exploring the wonders of Provence before indulging in three food-filled days in Paris. If you’re planning a trip to the capital, be sure to check out my guide on where to eat in Paris.

While France wasn’t a new destination for either of us, this particular trip marked our first encounter with the captivating South of France, specifically the enchanting Luberon region of Provence. We found it incredibly convenient to fly into Marseille airport, which is just an hour’s drive from the heart of the Luberon.

Capturing the essence of such a profound travel experience in words can be challenging, which partly explains the delay in writing. However, one thing is certain: we absolutely loved our time in Provence. Wandering through the numerous beautiful hilltop villages, you can’t help but feel transported back in time, immersed in a world where history and natural beauty intertwine seamlessly.

The Luberon is celebrated for its diverse and captivating landscape, which includes picturesque valleys, rolling hills, fragrant lavender fields (in season), and prestigious wineries. Beyond its natural beauty, the region is famous for its fantastic Provençal cuisine and a collection of charming small villages that have, remarkably, remained largely untouched for hundreds of years.

It is an incredibly picturesque destination—so much so that you might feel as though you’ve stepped into a dream. It’s easy to understand why so many visitors fall deeply in love with this corner of the world. Fortunately, most of the renowned towns in the Luberon, particularly those highlighted in this guide, are conveniently located within a short drive of one another, making exploration effortless.

How to Plan Your Provence Adventure

Whether you dream of a leisurely paced trip soaking in the local atmosphere or a more action-packed itinerary exploring multiple towns, the Luberon region is incredibly accessible and perfectly suited for discovery. Whatever your travel style, I strongly recommend renting a car for your trip to Provence. It provides unparalleled freedom and flexibility, allowing you to explore at your own pace. The roads are safe, well-signed, and navigating them is surprisingly easy—you’ll find it almost impossible to get truly lost.

Our trip combined slower days of relaxation with busier days where we explored two or three towns. While it’s certainly possible to fit even more into a single day, we prioritized a relaxed pace to fully immerse ourselves in the experience.

Given our limited time of just four full days in Provence, we made the conscious decision to bypass larger attractions like Avignon and Pont du Gard, and other famous sites closer to the coast. Even with this focused approach, we managed to see a remarkable amount. However, if your schedule allows, I would heartily recommend dedicating at least five to six full days to the Luberon to truly uncover its many treasures.

Essential Provence Travel Tips

Summer traditionally marks the high season for travel in Provence, largely due to the iconic lavender fields bursting into full bloom. Our visit took place in the late spring, just before the peak season. This allowed us to enjoy the towns when they were a bit quieter and more authentic, an experience I highly recommend if you prefer fewer crowds.

We were fortunate to have consistently cool, crisp, and sun-filled days throughout our stay. However, be aware that off-season weather can be a little more unpredictable. It’s also worth noting that summers in Provence can be very hot, so factor this into your planning, especially if you’re sensitive to high temperatures.

Please understand that this travel guide is by no means exhaustive. I highly encourage you to conduct your own research on the region and, crucially, to allow ample time in your itinerary for spontaneous exploration. Don’t hesitate to visit that charming small village you spot in the distance that might not be featured in guidebooks! Go off the beaten path; it’s often where the most magical discoveries are made.

We did this on several occasions and were consistently delighted. One of our favorite detours led us to a beautifully quaint village that we had entirely to ourselves, a truly special and memorable experience.

Luberon Markets: For those who love immersing themselves in local culture and culinary delights, a visit to a Provençal market is an absolute must. Nearly every village in the area hosts a market day once a week, offering a fantastic opportunity to sample local foods, discover unique specialties, and mingle with the friendly locals. The towns of Coustellet and Apt are particularly renowned for hosting some of the largest and best markets in the Luberon. Don’t miss this vibrant aspect of Provençal life!

Our Favorite Must-Visit Destinations in Luberon

While the Luberon region boasts countless beautiful towns and areas worthy of exploration beyond what’s covered here, I’ve curated a list of our absolute must-visit destinations below. These selections are intended to guide and inspire your next trip to Provence.

It’s worth noting that we had the invaluable experience of traveling with Connor’s parents, who are seasoned Provence visitors. Their extensive knowledge and past experiences significantly enhanced our short time there, helping us make the most of every moment.

Ménerbes: A Charming Base in the Luberon

While you could certainly hop from town to town, we opted for the small, picturesque hilltop village of Ménerbes as our home base for the entire duration of our stay. This proved to be an excellent choice. Despite its renown, Ménerbes is slightly less congested with tourists compared to more bustling spots like Roussillon or Gordes, offering a more tranquil and authentic experience.

Ménerbes is well-equipped with amenities, including several small restaurants, a convenient local grocer, charming shops, one or two bakeries, and other conveniences that make an extended stay comfortable. Furthermore, numerous exquisite wineries are located just five or ten minutes down the road, perfect for an afternoon tasting.

Our stay in an Airbnb situated right in the center of Ménerbes (which I highly recommend if available) allowed us to truly live like locals. We could simply step out the door, grab a freshly baked croissant and coffee, and soak in the village’s morning charm. The hilly, cobblestone streets of Ménerbes are not only stunning and full of character but also offer breathtaking views of the surrounding Luberon valley.

As is common in many of these ancient villages, the streets of Ménerbes are narrow and often one-way for traffic. Limited public parking is available at the bottom of the village. I strongly advise visiting these villages early in the day, especially during peak season, to secure a convenient parking spot.

Where to Eat in Ménerbes:

• Bistrot Le 5 – As the largest restaurant in Ménerbes, Bistrot Le 5 features a beautiful outdoor dining space, perfect for warmer months. The stunning views alone make it worth a visit. We thoroughly enjoyed an early dinner here on our first night.
• Les Saveurs Gourmandes – This cozy and highly-rated restaurant, recognized on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list, was conveniently located directly across from our Airbnb. It offers an affordable four-course Provençal pre-fixe menu alongside an à la carte selection. Our lovely meal concluded with a delightful lavender creme brûlée.
• Du Cote de Chez Charles – An excellent choice for a casual, sit-down lunch. They specialize in Provençal-style pizzas (imagine thin, crisp flatbreads topped with fresh arugula, charcuterie, and other local ingredients) and also serve wonderful fresh main course salads. We truly enjoyed this spot!
• Chez Auzet – A super cute bakery and casual cafe located towards the top of Ménerbes. They offer a tempting array of fresh baked pastries, quiches, and other light bites, with outdoor tables perfect for enjoying the village ambiance.

Where to Stay in Ménerbes:

• Maison O (Airbnb) – Due to the charmingly small size of these Provençal towns, finding rental properties located directly within the village centers can be quite challenging. Most Airbnbs or home rentals in Provence are typically situated a short drive outside a village. However, we absolutely cherished the idea of being able to walk out our door, grab breakfast, and truly feel like a local.
• We discovered this gorgeous property on Airbnb and our stay was nothing short of wonderful. It was very reasonably priced for its size, central location, and exceptional amenities, including a stunning outdoor patio with breathtaking views. The interior was incredibly comfortable, cozy, and beautifully decorated. The kitchen was also remarkably well-outfitted, enabling us to enjoy relaxed breakfasts at home (picking up fresh berries and other items from the local grocer) and even prepare a homemade dinner using fresh local produce from the farmer’s market in Coustellet.
• If you prefer hotel accommodations, most of the villages highlighted in this guide offer several options. However, it is strongly recommended to book well in advance, especially if you plan to visit during the busy summer months.

Oppède Le Vieux: A Glimpse into History

Just a short 10-minute drive from Ménerbes lies Oppède Le Vieux, a truly captivating site. This is not a bustling modern town, but rather the evocative ruins of a mountainous village dating back to the 12th century, perched dramatically above modern Oppède. During World War II, it famously served as a refuge for artists fleeing the Gestapo and Nazi persecution, adding a layer of poignant history to its ancient stones.

While certain sections of the older part of the village may be under construction or closed to the public, the hike to the summit is highly rewarding. Here, you can glimpse the impressive old castle and a charming chapel, both currently undergoing restoration, and soak in the palpable sense of history that permeates the air.

Where to Eat near Oppède Le Vieux:

• Le Petit Cafe – Although we didn’t dine here during our visit, Le Petit Cafe is a beautifully situated restaurant just before the entrance to the ruins of Oppède Le Vieux. It offers inviting indoor seating as well as a spacious outdoor patio, where you can enjoy stunning views of the hilltop village, especially enchanting when illuminated at night.

Lacoste: A Tiny Village with Big Charm

The tiny, steep-hilled cobblestone streets of Lacoste were, without a doubt, among my favorite from our entire trip. This village is positively stunning, almost to the point where its beauty feels surreal. Lacoste is primarily a residential village, nestled gracefully across from the much larger and livelier town of Bonnieux.

Embark on a delightful stroll up its steep, winding streets to reach the summit. Here, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views and catch a glimpse of the famous Château de Lacoste, once owned by the celebrated designer Pierre Cardin. The blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty is simply captivating.

While Lacoste’s setting is one of the most breathtaking in the region, it is a very tiny village and offers fewer amenities than nearby Ménerbes or Bonnieux, with only one bar and restaurant. Keep this in mind if you’re considering it as a primary base for exploring the area. That being said, its unique charm utterly captivated me!

If you do decide to stay in Lacoste, rest assured that numerous dining options are available in nearby Bonnieux. For grocery needs, a large supermarket in Coustellet is just a convenient 15-minute drive away.

Where to Grab a Drink in Lacoste:

• Cafe de France – This is the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee, a refreshing beer, or a glass of local wine. Take a moment to savor the lovely views from the outdoor dining area of Lacoste’s quaint Cafe de France.

Bonnieux: A Vibrant Luberon Town and Ancient Bridge

Bonnieux is another magnificent town in the Luberon that is absolutely worth a visit! It also serves as an excellent home base for exploring the surrounding area, as it is relatively larger compared to some other villages. Bonnieux offers a variety of local hotels, inviting restaurants, unique shops, and convenient amenities, making it a comfortable and dynamic spot for travelers.

If you’re in this part of the region, be sure to make a stop at the Pont Julien, a remarkable Roman stone arch bridge dating back to 3 BC. This historical marvel is just a ten-minute drive outside Bonnieux. What makes this bridge truly extraordinary is that it was in continuous use for traffic for nearly two thousand years until it was finally closed to cars (yes, car traffic was allowed on this ancient structure for an incredibly long time!) in 2005. Today, pedestrians are still welcome to walk across the bridge, offering a tangible connection to Roman history.

We were so glad we had the chance to visit it, as it also provided a fascinating glimpse into what the much larger Pont du Gard, located outside Avignon, is like. It’s a powerful reminder of the enduring legacy of Roman engineering in Provence.

Where to Eat in Bonnieux:

• La Bergerie – Located at the top of Bonnieux, La Bergerie offers a more casual dining experience compared to its counterpart, the 2-Star Michelin La Bastide de Capelongue restaurant. Both are part of the exquisite Domaine de Capelongue luxury hotel. The restaurant’s setting and grounds are absolutely stunning, and the food is consistently excellent. Highly recommended for a memorable meal with a view.
• La Bastide de Capelongue (2 Michelin Stars) – Although we didn’t dine here ourselves, if you’re seeking an exceptional, fine-dining experience in the Luberon, this highly acclaimed restaurant is definitely worth exploring!
• L’Arome – Another fantastic restaurant option in the Bonnieux area that consistently receives glowing reviews for its delicious Provençal cuisine and inviting atmosphere.

Gordes: The Iconic Hilltop Gem

I must confess, we didn’t do a *ton* of extensive research before our trip, partly because we were fortunate to be accompanied by Connor’s parents, who are very familiar with this beautiful region! However, Gordes was at the very top of my personal must-visit list.

All the villages in this guide possess their own unique beauty, but those first glimpses of Gordes are truly some of the most jaw-dropping. The setting of this town is absolutely incredible, in many ways reminding me of a French (though, of course, landlocked) version of Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Gordes boasts a lovely main square, bustling with local shops, inviting cafes, and intriguing alleys just waiting to be explored.

That said, Gordes is undeniably one of the most popular destinations in the Luberon, so I highly recommend visiting early in the day to avoid the largest crowds. Be aware that parking can also be quite limited, so arriving early helps secure a spot.

I would suggest dedicating at least a half (or even a full) day to this magnificent village. Wander through its ancient streets on foot, soak in the historic ambiance, and treat yourself to a delicious meal with stunning surrounding views at one of its many excellent local restaurants.

Roussillon: The Ochre Village

Roussillon is another truly beautiful and distinctive town in the Luberon region that is absolutely worth a visit. The colors of Roussillon are utterly stunning and remarkably different from any other village in the Luberon, creating a uniquely vibrant visual experience.

This captivating village is uniquely situated within one of the largest ochre deposits in the world. It is renowned for its rich and brightly colored red, yellow, and pink buildings, which are traditionally painted with local ochre pigments, set harmoniously against the dramatic backdrop of the nearby ochre cliffs. The interplay of natural and man-made colors is simply mesmerizing.

Take your time to visit the ochre cliffs and wander through the local streets; the photography opportunities here are truly endless! Every turn reveals a new perspective and an explosion of color.

While we absolutely loved our visit to Roussillon, it is undeniably one of the most popular destinations for both tour buses and individual tourists. Because of its bustling nature, I personally would not recommend using it as your primary home base. It felt the busiest of all the towns we explored, offering a different vibe than the quieter charm of Ménerbes.

Joucas: A Serene Hidden Gem

This picturesque hillside town, Joucas, is a true hidden gem that surprisingly isn’t mentioned in many guidebooks. We stumbled upon it by chance during one of our spontaneous explorations, and it proved to be a delightful discovery. We were able to leisurely walk through the entire town in just about 30 minutes, exploring its incredibly quiet streets without another tourist in sight.

This tranquil experience perfectly encapsulates why I so strongly recommend venturing off the beaten path and embracing leisurely exploration. It’s in these unplanned moments that you often find the most authentic and peaceful corners of Provence.

Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt: Ruins and Panoramic Views

While this village tends to be quieter, with many businesses closing during a large portion of the midday, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt turned out to be one of our most unexpected and cherished favorites from the entire trip. Its serene ambiance and hidden historical treasures are truly captivating.

Be sure to allocate ample time to hike and wander among the magnificent ruins of the chateau that majestically overlooks the village. These ruins were, without exaggeration, some of the most beautiful and evocative we encountered on our entire journey through Provence. The invigorating hike to the top is rewarded with truly incredible panoramic views of the sprawling nearby valley, a breathtaking vista that you won’t soon forget.

If you take away just one thing from this Provence, France travel guide, I sincerely hope it’s the inspiration to add Provence, and particularly the enchanting Luberon Valley, to your travel bucket list. Our time there was truly magical, and it easily stands out as one of the most special places I’ve ever had the privilege to visit. We are eagerly looking forward to returning someday soon, hopefully sooner rather than later!

You can explore my entire collection of travel guides here, including my comprehensive guide on where to eat in Paris.

Should you have any questions about planning your Provence adventure, please feel free to leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to provide answers or point you in the right direction. Safe travels!